Immaculate Deception

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
marathonmedic
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Immaculate Deception

Post by marathonmedic »

Didn't this used to be mid 11? I don't have my old copy of Ray's bible handy.
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heavyc
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Post by heavyc »

as I recall it has always been listed as a 12a although it probably is really 11d, I would think it compares similarly to papa love jugs in difficulty
sklag
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Post by sklag »

I dunno, that start looks pretty hard...
Comfort is a mindset.
Andrew
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Post by Andrew »

11c at the most. The start is V2-V3 no matter how tall you are.
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lena_chita
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Post by lena_chita »

The start felt really hard for me (I'm 5ft tall). It felt like a full-value 5.12 move. However, it is just off the ground, and the rest of the route is much easier, and there are couple no-hands rests... so yeah, it feels slightly ridiculous to call it a 5.12. But I haven't sent it yet, so I should just shut up, I guess.
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steep4me
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Post by steep4me »

Which route are you talking about?
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
lena_chita
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Post by lena_chita »

The name of the route is the title of the thread.
Jay
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Post by Jay »

FWIW, It's 11d in both the 1st and 2nd editions of Ray's guidebook, and in the 2nd edition of Johnny's book, although for some reason it isn't listed in the Bronough book's index...
"Always carry a large flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite and furthermore always carry a small snake." -W.C. Fields
rhunt
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Post by rhunt »

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1158

It's 12a on the online guide and put up in 04' way after the 1998 2nd edition of Johnny's book.
Jay
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Post by Jay »

My bad. I somehow confused it w/ the Infidel.

I'll shut up now.
"Always carry a large flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite and furthermore always carry a small snake." -W.C. Fields
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