Crazy stuff...anybody seen any old Kong hangers like these in the Red?
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... s/903599/1
*edited for correct hanger type- thanks Wes!*
Hanger Failure in the Cascades...
Hanger Failure in the Cascades...
Last edited by Jay on Sun Aug 30, 2009 2:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Always carry a large flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite and furthermore always carry a small snake." -W.C. Fields
Hey bolters, is this true?
From that thread:
"Wowza for sure....thanks for the pics and as a side note, I fully expect the plated steel Powers 5 piece (aka Rawl 5 piece) bolts to be failing in a similar manner for our children...if not sooner. They rust at a place it isn't visible to the eye, where the thread starts and meets the bolt body. It ain't gonna be pretty I expect when it starts, and you can't remove them like folks think, because they are rusted in there tight. They start this within a short time and are not removable without snapping the bolt. Then the placement is screwed. Better just to plug in the stainless first IMO. The cost is like $3 bucks for a 1/2" diameter SS wedge anchor vs what? Not a lot less for a steel 5 piece."
From that thread:
"Wowza for sure....thanks for the pics and as a side note, I fully expect the plated steel Powers 5 piece (aka Rawl 5 piece) bolts to be failing in a similar manner for our children...if not sooner. They rust at a place it isn't visible to the eye, where the thread starts and meets the bolt body. It ain't gonna be pretty I expect when it starts, and you can't remove them like folks think, because they are rusted in there tight. They start this within a short time and are not removable without snapping the bolt. Then the placement is screwed. Better just to plug in the stainless first IMO. The cost is like $3 bucks for a 1/2" diameter SS wedge anchor vs what? Not a lot less for a steel 5 piece."
The theory of evolution is just as stupid as the theories of gravity and electromagnetism.
They said it was an old Kong, not smc. I have an old smc hanger (1/4" bolt hole!), but *usually* when we replace bolts we leave the same hangers.
These routes were put up in the early 90's, around the same as some of the early rrg routes. And, usually, I can't tell how bad a bolt is til I break it off after installing a new one. I have no doubt there will be a total bolt failure at the red sometime soon, as there are plenty of time bombs out there. And $3 instead of $1 sounds fine for a bolt, but start doing the math with a couple thousands bolts, and the difference isn't so small.
I would love to see every bolt older then 10 years in the rrg replaced. And, I would love to see every bolt replaced with fat 1/2 x 8" stainless rebar stock and glue. But, just imagine the time and $$$ involved. Plus, everyone wants new routes to always be going up, and very few people want to take the time to go back and replace the old stuff.
These routes were put up in the early 90's, around the same as some of the early rrg routes. And, usually, I can't tell how bad a bolt is til I break it off after installing a new one. I have no doubt there will be a total bolt failure at the red sometime soon, as there are plenty of time bombs out there. And $3 instead of $1 sounds fine for a bolt, but start doing the math with a couple thousands bolts, and the difference isn't so small.
I would love to see every bolt older then 10 years in the rrg replaced. And, I would love to see every bolt replaced with fat 1/2 x 8" stainless rebar stock and glue. But, just imagine the time and $$$ involved. Plus, everyone wants new routes to always be going up, and very few people want to take the time to go back and replace the old stuff.
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
there are more than enough routes in the red. prob been a route a day for the last few years, kinda insane if you think about it.
i say every bolter stop putting up new lines. spend that time and money replacing old bolts.
doesnt bring the same fame and glory as developing but is a job that has to be done.
i say every bolter stop putting up new lines. spend that time and money replacing old bolts.
doesnt bring the same fame and glory as developing but is a job that has to be done.
http://www.redriveroutdoors.com
If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress
If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress
Do yo even climb anymore fluff, I heard you just run around in the woods on a bike!RRO wrote:there are more than enough routes in the red. prob been a route a day for the last few years, kinda insane if you think about it.
i say every bolter stop putting up new lines. spend that time and money replacing old bolts.
doesnt bring the same fame and glory as developing but is a job that has to be done.
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Ascentionist
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As always, what about places like funk rock and sky bridge, is there any talk with the forest service or are clandestine operations a must. I don't want to die on a rout named the infidel. (no need to be pointed out, just in case those religious types are correct)
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared