I really don't get this

Post by **steep4me** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 3:56 pm

Explain to me why:

A guy I know just redpointed a 5.14a and I was super psyched for him, right? So..I see another climbing acquaintence and say, Hey, did you hear so and so redpointed a 5.14?" (thinking he would be inspired as well)

The first thing out of the guy's mouth is "It's not really 5.14"
I say, "have you been on it?"
He says, "yeah"
I say, "did you send it?"
He says, "uh, no, but it's more like 5.13c/d"

How come the response isn't "really? That's awesome! He's really crushing these days!"

Explain

Post by **pigsteak** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 4:36 pm

that's easy..cause it really is only 13c....and no, I haven't been on it.

dude, give up your illusions that climbing is a big happy family....your bromance with the hater has revealed it's true colors. competition is a healthy and realistic part of life in general, and climbing is not immune. before all you oprah wannabes hate on me for stating the obvious, up your pie hole. yes, the competition may be internal for you, you underemployed hippie faker. it is competition nonetheless.

your story has two sides. first, your friend is jealous of the send (like you already knew, but were afraid to call him out on.)

second, you set him up because he did not conform to your expectations of the perfect answer. if that is his honest feelings and response, why would that bother you? would you prefer for him to have some canned "all's good brah" response? lame.

Post by **anticlmber** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 4:46 pm

yeah, good for him.....but really i'd rather talk about "us" the two people standing in the same space at thje same time, not someone else and their not curing cancer pursuit who isn't here.

why should i be "psyched" for someone?? i wasn't there, they can't feel my vibes, i'm not going to rub a crystal.

Post by KD » Sun Aug 16, 2009 5:54 pm

"oprah wannabes" thats funny

Post by **steep4me** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 8:25 pm

I just think it is cool when someone sends a route that they have been working on. Being jealous is: "Well, it really is just a 5.13c" (AKA:little dick response)

Being competitive is: "Nice send! That makes me want to train harder and climb something challenging (or the route you just did)"

People who aren't insecure and jealous don't have to cut somebody else down to feel ok about their own climbing. That's not a hippie oprah thing.--it's called not being a dick.

Post by **SCIN** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 8:42 pm

5.14 is a big achievement. If I sent a 14 which wasn't really a 14 I would probably call myself out on it before letting someone else do it. However, if the line really is a 14 then the dude's response it truly dicky. Which line was it?

Post by **steep4me** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:00 pm

I can't remember the name, but if someone sends a route that is rated 5.14a in the guidebook, I still think that's awesome, even if some people think it isn't that hard. Obviously someone did. That's why it is rated that way, yes?

I guess it's just me. If someone says "I sent my first 10a, AWOL!" It would not even occur to me to say, "don't get too excited, it's really 5.9."

Again, what's the point of doing that? I seriously don't get the motivation there.

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Aug 17, 2009 12:20 am

Let me guess, Whole Shot at Maple?

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Aug 17, 2009 12:56 am

steep4me wrote:I can't remember the name, but if someone sends a route that is rated 5.14a in the guidebook, I still think that's awesome, even if some people think it isn't that hard. Obviously someone did. That's why it is rated that way, yes?

I guess it's just me. If someone says "I sent my first 10a, AWOL!" It would not even occur to me to say, "don't get too excited, it's really 5.9."

Again, what's the point of doing that? I seriously don't get the motivation there.

Well, it's definitely rude. But to be fair to the guy who called your buddy out we have to look at it from all angles. The guy who called him out is kind of like Simon Cowell on American Idol. Simon says what everyone in the room is thinking but afraid to say because they are worried about being perceived as rude.

If the line was given 5.14 by someone but has since been downgraded by the community then the guy didn't send a 5.14. It will probably change in a future guidebook. But if it's a 5.14 considered "soft" by most people then sure, he sent a 5.14 and that's awesome. There's a difference between a line being soft and a line being a letter grade or two off. This all sounds pukey and lame but if you're playing the game of numbers then these things matter. Especially if you're looking for peer acceptance of the send.

If your buddy doesn't give a shit and is okay with the fact that the line was once graded 5.14 but really isn't 5.14 then he can do that. It all depends on whether he gives a shit what his friends think or if he's just happy with the send regardless of the grade because he worked his ass off for it. Best thing for him to do would be to just keep cranking and sending hard. I mean hell, even if it isn't a 5.14 then a 5.13c or d is still freaking hard and your buddy is strong.

Post by **steep4me** » Mon Aug 17, 2009 1:46 am

SCIN wrote:[If your buddy doesn't give a shit and is okay with the fact that the line was once graded 5.14 but really isn't 5.14 then he can do that. It all depends on whether he gives a shit what his friends think or if he's just happy with the send regardless of the grade because he worked his ass off for it. Best thing for him to do would be to just keep cranking and sending hard. I mean hell, even if it isn't a 5.14 then a 5.13c or d is still freaking hard and your buddy is strong.

Good analysis SCIN
The person who sent it is not one to spray (ever) or even tell anyone about it. That wasn't the point so much as I was excited for him. I agree that it is obviously a hard route and cool that he climbed it.