Best 11c

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
rustyvasectomy
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Post by rustyvasectomy »

krampus wrote:there goes the neighborhood is damn good but I bet if "game boy" wasn't a top out it would be everyones favorite. It has all 5 star criteria and way more exciting than spirit fingers or neighborhood. Its long, sustained, and several types of movement, with good 11c type resting jugs along the way.
I just left a biner on the last bolt and lowered off. But I disagree about game boy being 5 star. Routes at the red, like most of anticlimber's orifices, only get better with age and travel. So, if a route has not been done many many many times, then it still has too much choss on it and does not have five star status.
"It’s a not so secret secret that people who call themselvs trad climbers dont actually climb. They just post shit on rocklimbing.com all night while masturbating to Parrollelojams."
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krampus
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Post by krampus »

rustyvasectomy wrote:
krampus wrote:there goes the neighborhood is damn good but I bet if "game boy" wasn't a top out it would be everyones favorite. It has all 5 star criteria and way more exciting than spirit fingers or neighborhood. Its long, sustained, and several types of movement, with good 11c type resting jugs along the way.
I just left a biner on the last bolt and lowered off. But I disagree about game boy being 5 star. Routes at the red, like most of anticlimber's orifices, only get better with age and travel. So, if a route has not been done many many many times, then it still has too much choss on it and does not have five star status.
its not the routs fault that people like to follow the heard and have forgotten about the pre-PMRP/Muir red.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
rustyvasectomy
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Post by rustyvasectomy »

krampus wrote:its not the routs fault that people like to follow the heard and have forgotten about the pre-PMRP/Muir red.
ahh, the ever elusive traddie region of the gorge. Iv heard rumors about this place, tucked away somewhere between the southern region, Muir and torrent falls. Legend goes that it is deep in the traddie region that lie some of the most famous 5.9 cracks that traddies vehemently spray about! Of course, I can't dream about entering the territory because the native "I-only-climb-on-static-gear-brah-bro-traddie" is very protective of its domain...
"It’s a not so secret secret that people who call themselvs trad climbers dont actually climb. They just post shit on rocklimbing.com all night while masturbating to Parrollelojams."
gripster
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Post by gripster »

who here think rusty would flail and whine like a baby on one of these 5.9 cracks he is always going on about? hey rusty, have you ever even led a trad route? maybe you should try it sometime. you might find it more fun and difficult than you think.
rustyvasectomy
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Post by rustyvasectomy »

hey, Lance Armstrong, why you always riding your bike places and battling cancer? Why don't you give sitting around and smoking crack a try? It might be more fun than you think...
"It’s a not so secret secret that people who call themselvs trad climbers dont actually climb. They just post shit on rocklimbing.com all night while masturbating to Parrollelojams."
gripster
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Post by gripster »

hmmm, i am not sure if that analogy is even close to relevant but ok. I still think you would flail and whine like a baby.
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Saxman
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Post by Saxman »

rustyvasectomy wrote:I just left a biner on the last bolt and lowered off.
Yet a properly tied bowline is ridiculously unsafe.
The theory of evolution is just as stupid as the theories of gravity and electromagnetism.
Wes
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Post by Wes »

gripster wrote:I still think you would flail and whine like a baby.
Um, no, probably not. But, I am sure you would whine like a baby on his warmups, that is if you could get past the first bolt. Maybe you should challenge him to a climb off, you know, like for money and stuff.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Wes
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Post by Wes »

krampus wrote:
rustyvasectomy wrote:
krampus wrote:there goes the neighborhood is damn good but I bet if "game boy" wasn't a top out it would be everyones favorite. It has all 5 star criteria and way more exciting than spirit fingers or neighborhood. Its long, sustained, and several types of movement, with good 11c type resting jugs along the way.
I just left a biner on the last bolt and lowered off. But I disagree about game boy being 5 star. Routes at the red, like most of anticlimber's orifices, only get better with age and travel. So, if a route has not been done many many many times, then it still has too much choss on it and does not have five star status.
its not the routs fault that people like to follow the heard and have forgotten about the pre-PMRP/Muir red.
Actually, it never really got done all that much, "back in the day and shit" either. It is dumb that it tops out, but the top out the sport route was a phase there for a while.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
rustyvasectomy
Posts: 164
Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2007 12:17 pm

Post by rustyvasectomy »

Wes wrote:
gripster wrote:I still think you would flail and whine like a baby.
Um, no, probably not. But, I am sure you would whine like a baby on his warmups, that is if you could get past the first bolt. Maybe you should challenge him to a climb off, you know, like for money and stuff.
Eh, I may not be a good rock climber, but if its a rap battle or a juggling contest, your on gripster!!
"It’s a not so secret secret that people who call themselvs trad climbers dont actually climb. They just post shit on rocklimbing.com all night while masturbating to Parrollelojams."
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