The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by JB » Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:39 pm

This weekend I saw: THIS THREAD!

Post by **tbwilsonky** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 4:23 pm

JB wrote:This weekend I saw: THIS THREAD!

burn. i'm so 1337 i couldn't even read the last two pages of this thread. it just looks like wingdings to me.

Post by **MartyV** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 6:58 pm

Climbed Snake at Fortress, decided to continue up Scratch Your Face which is directly above Snake. I'm tied into the the anchors of Snake and my partner is heading up on Scratch. Someone comes along, and asks "Mind if we climb up Snake underneath you?" I said "No, not a good idea." They looked irritated but reluctantly step a few feet away from the base of the route.

30 seconds later my partner steps on a hold and a 3-4 lb rock breaks free and splatters at their feet!

Post by **ahab** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:28 pm

how was SYF? it looks really chossy/bad, but i'm strangely attracted to it...is it worth it?

Post by **rhunt** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:44 pm

don't dis this thread - its the most important thread any gumby climber can read.

Post by **MartyV** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:52 pm

ahab wrote:how was SYF? it looks really chossy/bad, but i'm strangely attracted to it...is it worth it?

Lots of loose stones, sand, and rotten rock. Lots of bat guano, under the roof too. Pulling the roof is interesting, but I'd only give the route one star at the most. I wouldn't recommend it, lots of better stuff to do.

Post by **pawilkes** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 10:45 pm

this is like one of those riddles from 3rd grade: an onsight is a flash is a redpoints, but a flash is not necessarily an onsight and a redpoint is not necessarily a flash or onsight. they all mean you sent the route but they each offer specifics about HOW you sent the route

Post by **512OW** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 11:17 pm

sendit wrote:
512OW wrote:
No, an onsight IS a flash. In fact, the term was originally "onsight flash". Both terms are also redpoints, since all a redpoint means is that you climbed from the bottom to the top without weighting the rope or gear, on lead, whether you flash it, onsight it, or do it on your 383723804 attempt (which for some people nowadays would be converted to 3rd redpoint attempt).

An onsight is NOT the same as a flash....
For example, Sean McColl flashed thanatopsis because he was coached/sprayed down on the route. Here's a video of him discussing flashing Thana and onsighting white mans....
http://petzlcrew.petzlteam.com/index.ph ... ean-McColl

More reference...
http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www. ... eId%3D4007[/i]

Correct. An onsight is not the same as a flash. However, an onsight is a flash with no beta. Reread your history instead of referencing Sean McColl videos, and THEN you can argue intelligently.

The actual terms are "onsight flash" and "beta flash". They've been shortened to "onsight" and "flash" to avoid confusion. Both are flashes. One is done onsight.

Post by **tbwilsonky** » Wed Jun 03, 2009 12:23 am

512OW wrote:
sendit wrote:
512OW wrote:
No, an onsight IS a flash. In fact, the term was originally "onsight flash". Both terms are also redpoints, since all a redpoint means is that you climbed from the bottom to the top without weighting the rope or gear, on lead, whether you flash it, onsight it, or do it on your 383723804 attempt (which for some people nowadays would be converted to 3rd redpoint attempt).

An onsight is NOT the same as a flash....
For example, Sean McColl flashed thanatopsis because he was coached/sprayed down on the route. Here's a video of him discussing flashing Thana and onsighting white mans....
http://petzlcrew.petzlteam.com/index.ph ... ean-McColl

More reference...
http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www. ... eId%3D4007[/i]
Correct. An onsight is not the same as a flash. However, an onsight is a flash with no beta. Reread your history instead of referencing Sean McColl videos, and THEN you can argue intelligently.

The actual terms are "onsight flash" and "beta flash". They've been shortened to "onsight" and "flash" to avoid confusion. Both are flashes. One is done onsight.

schooled. Sean McColl ain't no history book noobsauce.

+5

Post by JR » Wed Jun 03, 2009 2:05 am

I had to peek at Sendit's ticklist. I had to know. Here's the thing. He has climbed up to 12C and still is confused about the terminology.

I kinda wonder if this a generational thing. I have notice that older climbers and younger climbers use a slightly different vernacular. I would say that 512OW leans heavily toward the old school jargon. So...........

Sendit could you kindly state your age?