The ongoing weekend idiot report
- tbwilsonky
- Posts: 868
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 9:38 pm
Climbed Snake at Fortress, decided to continue up Scratch Your Face which is directly above Snake. I'm tied into the the anchors of Snake and my partner is heading up on Scratch. Someone comes along, and asks "Mind if we climb up Snake underneath you?" I said "No, not a good idea." They looked irritated but reluctantly step a few feet away from the base of the route.
30 seconds later my partner steps on a hold and a 3-4 lb rock breaks free and splatters at their feet!
30 seconds later my partner steps on a hold and a 3-4 lb rock breaks free and splatters at their feet!
Don't let what you cannot do interfere with what you can do.
Lots of loose stones, sand, and rotten rock. Lots of bat guano, under the roof too. Pulling the roof is interesting, but I'd only give the route one star at the most. I wouldn't recommend it, lots of better stuff to do.ahab wrote:how was SYF? it looks really chossy/bad, but i'm strangely attracted to it...is it worth it?
Don't let what you cannot do interfere with what you can do.
this is like one of those riddles from 3rd grade: an onsight is a flash is a redpoints, but a flash is not necessarily an onsight and a redpoint is not necessarily a flash or onsight. they all mean you sent the route but they each offer specifics about HOW you sent the route
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.
Correct. An onsight is not the same as a flash. However, an onsight is a flash with no beta. Reread your history instead of referencing Sean McColl videos, and THEN you can argue intelligently.sendit wrote:512OW wrote:
No, an onsight IS a flash. In fact, the term was originally "onsight flash". Both terms are also redpoints, since all a redpoint means is that you climbed from the bottom to the top without weighting the rope or gear, on lead, whether you flash it, onsight it, or do it on your 383723804 attempt (which for some people nowadays would be converted to 3rd redpoint attempt).
An onsight is NOT the same as a flash....
For example, Sean McColl flashed thanatopsis because he was coached/sprayed down on the route. Here's a video of him discussing flashing Thana and onsighting white mans....
http://petzlcrew.petzlteam.com/index.ph ... ean-McColl
More reference...
http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www. ... eId%3D4007[/i]
The actual terms are "onsight flash" and "beta flash". They've been shortened to "onsight" and "flash" to avoid confusion. Both are flashes. One is done onsight.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
- tbwilsonky
- Posts: 868
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 9:38 pm
schooled. Sean McColl ain't no history book noobsauce.512OW wrote:Correct. An onsight is not the same as a flash. However, an onsight is a flash with no beta. Reread your history instead of referencing Sean McColl videos, and THEN you can argue intelligently.sendit wrote:512OW wrote:
No, an onsight IS a flash. In fact, the term was originally "onsight flash". Both terms are also redpoints, since all a redpoint means is that you climbed from the bottom to the top without weighting the rope or gear, on lead, whether you flash it, onsight it, or do it on your 383723804 attempt (which for some people nowadays would be converted to 3rd redpoint attempt).
An onsight is NOT the same as a flash....
For example, Sean McColl flashed thanatopsis because he was coached/sprayed down on the route. Here's a video of him discussing flashing Thana and onsighting white mans....
http://petzlcrew.petzlteam.com/index.ph ... ean-McColl
More reference...
http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www. ... eId%3D4007[/i]
The actual terms are "onsight flash" and "beta flash". They've been shortened to "onsight" and "flash" to avoid confusion. Both are flashes. One is done onsight.
+5
haunted.
I had to peek at Sendit's ticklist. I had to know. Here's the thing. He has climbed up to 12C and still is confused about the terminology.
I kinda wonder if this a generational thing. I have notice that older climbers and younger climbers use a slightly different vernacular. I would say that 512OW leans heavily toward the old school jargon. So...........
Sendit could you kindly state your age?
I kinda wonder if this a generational thing. I have notice that older climbers and younger climbers use a slightly different vernacular. I would say that 512OW leans heavily toward the old school jargon. So...........
Sendit could you kindly state your age?