The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by **trog** » Mon Jun 01, 2009 10:26 pm

does this mean I have to take back all my redpoint onsight flashes hanging the draws from my list? and I was just getting comfortable sleeping in my harness and helmet...

Post by **512OW** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 12:19 am

I suppose that technically, an onsight (which is a flash), is also a redpoint. So... maybe piggie is the real noob here...

Post by **Redpoint** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:00 am

Well more technically an onsight (which is different from a flash), is also different from a redpoint since a onsight means you sent it on your first attempt without beta, a flash is when you sent it your first attempt with beta, and an onisight means you sent it on your second or more try, and so I think the whole thing is hilarious, and this is a pretty big run-on sentence.

Post by **Shamis** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 4:16 am

No, redpoint just means you sent it while hanging the draws, infinite tries. But then again, nobody uses the term pinkpoint anymore, so redpoint has lost its meaning. Redpoint now includes stick clipping the 4th draw. lol.

Post by **Saxman** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 11:49 am

Redpoint wrote:onisight means you sent it on your second or more try,

Wow, I have been so misinformed. I guess I need to read more climbing books.

Post by **512OW** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 12:06 pm

Redpoint wrote:Well more technically an onsight (which is different from a flash), is also different from a redpoint since a onsight means you sent it on your first attempt without beta, a flash is when you sent it your first attempt with beta, and an onisight means you sent it on your second or more try, and so I think the whole thing is hilarious, and this is a pretty big run-on sentence.

No, an onsight IS a flash. In fact, the term was originally "onsight flash". Both terms are also redpoints, since all a redpoint means is that you climbed from the bottom to the top without weighting the rope or gear, on lead, whether you flash it, onsight it, or do it on your 383723804 attempt (which for some people nowadays would be converted to 3rd redpoint attempt).

Post by **sendit** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 2:39 pm

512OW wrote:
No, an onsight IS a flash. In fact, the term was originally "onsight flash". Both terms are also redpoints, since all a redpoint means is that you climbed from the bottom to the top without weighting the rope or gear, on lead, whether you flash it, onsight it, or do it on your 383723804 attempt (which for some people nowadays would be converted to 3rd redpoint attempt).

An onsight is NOT the same as a flash....
For example, Sean McColl flashed thanatopsis because he was coached/sprayed down on the route. Here's a video of him discussing flashing Thana and onsighting white mans....
http://petzlcrew.petzlteam.com/index.ph ... ean-McColl

More reference...
http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www. ... eId%3D4007[/i]

Post by **ahab** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 2:47 pm

Redpoint wrote:is not

512OW wrote:nuh-uh

sendit wrote:uh-huh

512OW wrote:is not

Redpoint wrote:is so

yawn.
with a user name like redpoint, he obviously knows what he's talking about. just take his word for it, k?

Post by **Shamis** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:28 pm

Flash - n. completion of a climb first try with no falls. 2. (vb.) to perform a flash.
Onsight - n/vb. a clean ascent with no falls, first try, with no prior knowledge of the route.
Redpoint - n/vb. a clean ascent with no falls, placing protection while climbing.
Pinkpoint - n.vb. A clean (no-falls) ascent of a route on lead with gear pre-placed. The climber need only clip the rope into the preplaced protection while climbing. Note: This term has disappeared from sport climbing terminology with all clean leads called redpoints.

Post by **Saxman** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:38 pm

Redpoint wrote:That is not what John Long said in How to Rock Climb, Advanced Rock Climbing, Climbing Anchors, More Climbing Anchors, or Climbing Anchors 2nd Ed. so fuck you all.