Unsolicited Advice Part III: How to get Better at Climbing

Post by **anticlmber** » Sat May 02, 2009 12:51 pm

mike_anderson wrote: Like anything, it's a tool.

A tool used in the wrong way can make a big mess, or it can be very helpful.
.

you're a tool.

the second part.....it just makes me smile.

Post by **michaelarmand** » Sat May 02, 2009 1:16 pm

I read Eric Horst's How to Climb 5.12....lot of good advice. But all the focus on "training" - doesn't seem fun. When I go to the red, I want to get on new climbs, and when I feel good get on something at my limit. I rarely project a climb. And at the gym I just want to get a quick workout in. Perhaps sucking is just my destiny?

Post by JR » Sat May 02, 2009 2:27 pm

michaelarmand,

Curious enough to read a book about climbing 5.12 but not driven enough to try any of it. What did you think was going to be in the book?

Did you think there was just going to be one line. KEEP DOING WHAT YOU ARE DOING YOU WILL GET TO 5.12 EVENTUALLY. THANKS FOR BUYING THE BOOK LOVE ERIC. Followed by many pictures of his wife exercising.

Post by **bcombs** » Sat May 02, 2009 3:29 pm

I didn't know that was his wife...

Post by **tutugirl** » Sat May 02, 2009 5:36 pm

I personally think it is good advice for people who want to climb 12s, get a good base, get good technique and climb a lot...once you cross the level of 13 it is a personal approach, what ever works for you it will be the best. I am sure by the time a climber climbs 13s they know their body fairly well, how much to train, when to train and how to avoid injury. Also the age of the climber has to affect the way they train because it is not the same to be 18 or to be 51... I find as I age I need a lot more cross training than I did when I started climbing at 34. So I have to do more weight training to keep muscle tone to avoid injury...again, this is just for me and don't know if this will be any good for others but I sure hear of a lot of shoulder injuries and I can only wonder if cross training would have helped.

Post by KD » Sat May 02, 2009 5:40 pm

I am going to follow that pyramid thing to the letter! I have to do about 1000 five zeroes now so i better get busy!

Post by **michaelarmand** » Sun May 03, 2009 3:34 am

JR wrote:michaelarmand,

Curious enough to read a book about climbing 5.12 but not driven enough to try any of it. What did you think was going to be in the book?

Did you think there was just going to be one line. KEEP DOING WHAT YOU ARE DOING YOU WILL GET TO 5.12 EVENTUALLY. THANKS FOR BUYING THE BOOK LOVE ERIC. Followed by many pictures of his wife exercising.

I'm feeling the tough love JR! The book was loaned to me from a friend, I read it to learn some new stuff. And I am trying plenty of it, mostly the route reading and mental techniques. Maybe I'll get more ambitious and try all the training stuff.....someday....

Post by **pawilkes** » Sun May 03, 2009 12:58 pm

you have almost justified my methods about building a base with this thread, now maybe my partners will get off my back about climbing harder and just let me be a wuss

Post by **Saxman** » Sun May 03, 2009 3:16 pm

An ever growing pyramid is not the same as a block that keeps getting longer but not taller. By that logic, you could redpoint a 13 by simply climbing enough 10s and 11s.

Post by JR » Sun May 03, 2009 4:06 pm

The training paradox. I believe and practice much of what you are advising, and I have seen benefits. But why is it the strongest guys that I personally know really do none of this shit?