Jingus Anchor on Bonzo?

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
captain static
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Jingus Anchor on Bonzo?

Post by captain static »

Yesterday someone reported to me a concern about the anchor at the top of the first pitch of Bedtime for Bonzo. They said that someone had replaced the old anchor with a setup they thought was potentially dangerous. From what they described to me it sounded like the new anchor was a Fixe Traditional anchor setup that was installed with the rap ring bolt as the top anchor instead of as the bottom bolt. Has anyone else observed this or have any additonal info?
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
pedro_sandchez
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Joined: Fri Mar 20, 2009 4:03 am

Post by pedro_sandchez »

I just climbed Bonzo a week and a half ago and the anchor was the same as I remember it being last February when I climbed it last. Not sure if it is the setup you described or not though.
RRO
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Post by RRO »

have not been on the route in a litte while, have no good input on the new anchor. the old one needed replaced for years. anything as long as the operator didnt mess the job up would be better than it was.

what hits me is the word jingus. it sounds cool and i have used it a couple times myself. its just one of those words i cant decide if i dig or not......
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goodguy
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Post by goodguy »

I haven't been on it to see, but the correct placement is with the ring at the bottom. If it is upside down, weighting the ring up top would essentially mean that you are rappelling off of the top bolt only and if it failed there would be extension and the bottom bolt would be shock loaded.
Oh man, he is messing that up. However, he is missing his left leg so that way would probably be harder for him. SCIN, just before spraying some beta for a climber doing a route the WRONG way.
pedro_sandchez
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Mar 20, 2009 4:03 am

Post by pedro_sandchez »

goodguy wrote:I haven't been on it to see, but the correct placement is with the ring at the bottom. If it is upside down, weighting the ring up top would essentially mean that you are rappelling off of the top bolt only and if it failed there would be extension and the bottom bolt would be shock loaded.
Actually, now that goodguy describes it more clearly, I am pretty sure that the current setup is incorrect (i.e. rap ring on the top bolt).
captain static
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Post by captain static »

goodguy wrote:I haven't been on it to see, but the correct placement is with the ring at the bottom. If it is upside down, weighting the ring up top would essentially mean that you are rappelling off of the top bolt only and if it failed there would be extension and the bottom bolt would be shock loaded.
That is what the person who reported this to me thought.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
pkananen
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Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 2:20 am

Post by pkananen »

I've always wondered why there was an anchor at the top of the first pitch anyway...after the first 10 feet of the first pitch it's practically 4th class.
Jay
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Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 1:17 pm

Post by Jay »

The anchor is a Fixe traditional- I think part of the confusion is that it's placed in a nearly horizontal roof, with the hanger connected to the rap ring in the back (away from the cliff edge) position. If this bolt were to fail, the ring would swing down and out onto the second bolt as it re-aligned itself with the load direction, but it doesn't look like it would shockload it.
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512OW
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Post by 512OW »

People still use gear and anchors to climb that route?
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captain static
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Post by captain static »

Jay wrote:The anchor is a Fixe traditional- I think part of the confusion is that it's placed in a nearly horizontal roof, with the hanger connected to the rap ring in the back (away from the cliff edge) position. If this bolt were to fail, the ring would swing down and out onto the second bolt as it re-aligned itself with the load direction, but it doesn't look like it would shockload it.
According to the Fixe website the anchor is designed for vertical placement such that both bolt placements are simultaneously loaded: http://www.fixeusa.com/traditional_anchors.htm
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
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