recovery training

[tbwilsonky]

i haven't trained endurance much this year, but for what it's worth i find the following kinda useful:

1) put up a 20-30 move boulder problem.
2) work til you can send it.
3) work til you can send it, rest on a jug, and send it again.
4) work til you can send it, rest on marginal hols, and send it again.
5) work til you can run it 4 times in a row while only resting on awful holds.
6) set a harder problem and repeat.

it's more or less what 5120W and SCIN suggested but at the gym. i also like 4x4's, but they aren't nearly as motivating as sending a former project 4 times in a row without dropping off your wall.

-t

[ynot]

Good stuff. Now I'm even more sore after cranking on my wall.

[toad857]

if you don't like training (i've never tried it--doesn't have the appeal), then you can try other creative things. while shaking out on that jug, pull out your brush and clean it up as you alternate hands. most jugs don't need a brushing, but that's beside the point. your fingers will feel the difference, and that will subconsciously boost your morale. it works on no-hands rests, too--just brush holds right in front of your face, even if you don't use them.

[tbwilsonky]

^^^^^^training^^^^^^^

semantics win.

[der uber]

The recovery drills described here are similar what I've been doing. I always called them interval drills, 4 x 4's, laps, etc. and thought that recovery training was something unique. I'm psyched - it's time to get back on it.

[ᴙↂᵷƔÈ]

Just climb a lot and you'll develop neither past the normal levels

hmmm... so what exactly is the normal level???