Then purge the evil with fire, or find an old priest and a young priest.Ascentionist wrote:But what if they become self-tying after you buy them.
Darn sneaky ropes!
How to retrieve a stuck rope?
"Oh, everything's too damned expensive these days. This bible cost 15 bucks! And talk about a preachy book! Everybody's a sinner! Except this guy." - Homer Simpson
Story time: I was at the Dome with a couple other friends and we cleaned Private Duty nurses or one next to it. Sure enough they couldn't pull the rope. I was putting away my rack and told them Just wait till I'm done and I'll pull it. I put the end around behind my hip like a hip belay and ran backwards down slope. It came tight and then broke free sending me rolling over backwards through the rhodos.I scraped a boulder too. I still have the scar on my waist but the rope came unstuck.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
Had this happen 1400 feet up in Red Rocks a few weeks ago. Pulling the rope after the first of 12 consecutive rappels and it got stuck solid in a crack. No amount of flipping, see-sawing, grunting or cursing would move it.
Put a prussic around the rope and attach to belay loop (or you can use a gri-gri for this....just be sure you thread it properly). Second just keeps you on belay, or you can tie that end into anchor. Climb up, moving the prussic (or gri-gri, or ATC guide in autolock mode) up the rope with you and put gear in below the prussic as you go up. You're now protected as in a lead climb. Get it unstuck and downclimb with second pulling in rope and keeping you on belay as you climb down. If downclimbing won't work, sacrifice 2 or 3 nuts for a rappel anchor.
If you really can't climb the rock back up (ie., overhang), well,,,, you're kinda screwed. At some point there, you make a decision on just how "stuck" that rope is and if it will hold as you jug up it until you get some gear in somewhere. Absolutely not recommended until all other options, including spending the night on the rock, are extinguished. And if you do this, build one heck of an anchor to attach to. Prayer is also useful in this event.......
Put a prussic around the rope and attach to belay loop (or you can use a gri-gri for this....just be sure you thread it properly). Second just keeps you on belay, or you can tie that end into anchor. Climb up, moving the prussic (or gri-gri, or ATC guide in autolock mode) up the rope with you and put gear in below the prussic as you go up. You're now protected as in a lead climb. Get it unstuck and downclimb with second pulling in rope and keeping you on belay as you climb down. If downclimbing won't work, sacrifice 2 or 3 nuts for a rappel anchor.
If you really can't climb the rock back up (ie., overhang), well,,,, you're kinda screwed. At some point there, you make a decision on just how "stuck" that rope is and if it will hold as you jug up it until you get some gear in somewhere. Absolutely not recommended until all other options, including spending the night on the rock, are extinguished. And if you do this, build one heck of an anchor to attach to. Prayer is also useful in this event.......
That's the answer I came up with. its a bitch, but it gets you home alive.ewaaser wrote:Had this happen 1400 feet up in Red Rocks a few weeks ago. Pulling the rope after the first of 12 consecutive rappels and it got stuck solid in a crack. No amount of flipping, see-sawing, grunting or cursing would move it.
Put a prussic around the rope and attach to belay loop (or you can use a gri-gri for this....just be sure you thread it properly). Second just keeps you on belay, or you can tie that end into anchor. Climb up, moving the prussic (or gri-gri, or ATC guide in autolock mode) up the rope with you and put gear in below the prussic as you go up. You're now protected as in a lead climb. Get it unstuck and downclimb with second pulling in rope and keeping you on belay as you climb down. If downclimbing won't work, sacrifice 2 or 3 nuts for a rappel anchor.
If you really can't climb the rock back up (ie., overhang), well,,,, you're kinda screwed. At some point there, you make a decision on just how "stuck" that rope is and if it will hold as you jug up it until you get some gear in somewhere. Absolutely not recommended until all other options, including spending the night on the rock, are extinguished. And if you do this, build one heck of an anchor to attach to. Prayer is also useful in this event.......