Just common sense really, all this talk about it's not an injury if this or that, the definition is quite simple:
Main Entry:
in·ju·ry Listen to the pronunciation of injury
Pronunciation:
\ˈinj-rē, ˈin-jə-\
Function:
noun
Inflected Form(s):
plural in·ju·ries
1 a: an act that damages or hurts : wrong b: violation of another's rights for which the law allows an action to recover damages2: hurt, damage, or loss sustained
"merriam-webster"
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
or
Injury: Harm or hurt. The term "injury" may be applied in medicine to damage inflicted upon oneself as in a hamstring injury or by an external agent on as in a cold injury. The injury may be accidental or deliberate, as with a needlestick injury. The term "injury" may be synonymous (depending on the context) with a wound or with trauma.
"medterms.com"
Right now my wrist hurts everyday from cleaning up the icestorm, I think I messed it up picking up a big log or something. Well I know that I better stay off of it because every time I climb it hurts even worse the next day than ever before(obviously prolonging the injury), and so I guess I will be taking another week off.
I also know that if you are tired enough while climbing that you can hurt yourself on a 5.11A move like I did at the gym. I suspect a total beginner could hurt themselves doing a 5.9 move.
Maybe you are just such a good climber Pig that the only way you can hurt yourself is on a 5.12 move, but the same doesn't go for everybody, especially beginners.
I'm just messing with you though Pig, I know you were joking when you said "...doesn't count for anything". I am just trying to make a point that even if it is a minor injury you should stay off of it. My doctor personally told me to stay off of mine when I saw him.
About the training information:
I am sure you could write some much better guides on how to train for climbing Saxman than what I posted, but unfortunately I doubt you have written any. Your logic doesn't make any sense to me, are you saying that all of the information that I have obtained from climbing experts is missinformed because it came from a book or a website? The worst place to obtain information is from a forum I know, but at least I try and source where I got my information from instead of making stuff up that most likely would be incorrect.
I also forgot to mention that there is tons of great books on how to train for rock climbing at the local bookstores, and from browsing through them I can tell that it would be better to get expert advice in the matter than to just make up your own routine on how to train(unless you are a fitness trainer or something, but even then you might learn some stuff in those books in the way that climbing training is different from other types). They tell you how to train for what your goal is, and how to do it efficiently.
Too Old?
Redpoint - advice about this website - don't take anything personally esp from pigsteak - he receives a small salary for offending people and pissing people off on this website so he is just doing his job.
Seriously though, if you have only been climbing less than a year and you are already dealing with those nagging injuries then you are headed for a major over-use injury. Climbing is really hard on the joints when they are not ready for it or over-used. I have suffered though two major shoulder injuries - both right and left. The left one(my second shoulder injury), my bicep longhead attachment at my should torn completely off doing a 5.9 move and I use to be a 5.12 climber. The right one was an over-use injury - started as a nagging pain that caued me to rest it for a week just like you, then over time got so bad I couldn't sleep at night. Had to have surgery to fix that problem and all because I loved climbing so much I wouldn't stop to let things heal. Your love for climbing will cause more injuries than heal them. Anyway I am rambling.
Redpoint - just go slow - enjoy the slow process of improving at the grades - climb lots of stuff that is easy for you and gives you lots of confidence Listen to your body and give those nagging pains more than a week to heal. Cross train with lots of opposing muscle training (non climbing muscles) and stay fit and lean.
Seriously though, if you have only been climbing less than a year and you are already dealing with those nagging injuries then you are headed for a major over-use injury. Climbing is really hard on the joints when they are not ready for it or over-used. I have suffered though two major shoulder injuries - both right and left. The left one(my second shoulder injury), my bicep longhead attachment at my should torn completely off doing a 5.9 move and I use to be a 5.12 climber. The right one was an over-use injury - started as a nagging pain that caued me to rest it for a week just like you, then over time got so bad I couldn't sleep at night. Had to have surgery to fix that problem and all because I loved climbing so much I wouldn't stop to let things heal. Your love for climbing will cause more injuries than heal them. Anyway I am rambling.
Redpoint - just go slow - enjoy the slow process of improving at the grades - climb lots of stuff that is easy for you and gives you lots of confidence Listen to your body and give those nagging pains more than a week to heal. Cross train with lots of opposing muscle training (non climbing muscles) and stay fit and lean.
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
Thanks for the advice. I hurt my shoulder real bad after a fall when a vine I was swinging on broke, and I fell about 10 feet on to rock. I went to the hospital but all they did was prescribe me Perkasets which I never ended up taking because I wanted to tuff it out with just some Advils. Back to my point, I kept climbing on it and I thought it was never going to stop hurting. Months went by and I started thinking I would need surgery, thank god it ended up healing itself though, I just quit bouldering, doing dynos, and stayed off of the routes that works your shoulders real hard, and that helped a lot, and now I am fully recovered from that.
I am not sure what the answer to this is: who loves climbing more, the person who keeps climbing on their injury, or the person who stays off of it because they are too concerned about their future climbing career?
I cross train a lot, I am big on mountain biking, caving, hiking, kayaking, and you know any adventure sport I can get my hands on.
I am not sure what the answer to this is: who loves climbing more, the person who keeps climbing on their injury, or the person who stays off of it because they are too concerned about their future climbing career?
I cross train a lot, I am big on mountain biking, caving, hiking, kayaking, and you know any adventure sport I can get my hands on.
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
Ya I tell everyone who was there for that incident that I am going to stick to my UIAA rated rope for now on. I hate vines now, and roots too.
Actually I ended up trusting a root last weekend at Hemlock Cliffs in Indiana. You can't see it in this picture but I think this girls hand is on it. She ended up chickening out here:
I got up there but I kept thinking the root was going to break and history was going to repeat itself. After I got up I looked left and saw that you had to walk on a sloping bank of leaves that went to a 100 foot drop off, so I chickened out and down-climbed what I had already done. I figured with the amount of alcohol that I drank I wasn't in the right mind to make a decision involving my life. Alcohol was pretty much to blame for the vine incident, I was hammered. Here is the view of that 100 foot drop:
Hemlock is a great place to go hiking, it's only 45 minutes from downtown Louisville. It also has repelling and trad climbing, but not at the two waterfall areas. The sandstone is really chossy though, you can read about the routes at rockclimbing.com. There is also Mesmor Ridge a 1 mile hike from there, and that place has 150 foot tall cliffs, 5 sandstone caves, and trad.
Here is some more pics that I took:
Actually I ended up trusting a root last weekend at Hemlock Cliffs in Indiana. You can't see it in this picture but I think this girls hand is on it. She ended up chickening out here:
I got up there but I kept thinking the root was going to break and history was going to repeat itself. After I got up I looked left and saw that you had to walk on a sloping bank of leaves that went to a 100 foot drop off, so I chickened out and down-climbed what I had already done. I figured with the amount of alcohol that I drank I wasn't in the right mind to make a decision involving my life. Alcohol was pretty much to blame for the vine incident, I was hammered. Here is the view of that 100 foot drop:
Hemlock is a great place to go hiking, it's only 45 minutes from downtown Louisville. It also has repelling and trad climbing, but not at the two waterfall areas. The sandstone is really chossy though, you can read about the routes at rockclimbing.com. There is also Mesmor Ridge a 1 mile hike from there, and that place has 150 foot tall cliffs, 5 sandstone caves, and trad.
Here is some more pics that I took:
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
There is a girl in there, and they aren't climbing a tree, they are laying in a climbing position on one:
That cave above had a boulder problem in it, but it was too sketchy without a pad. One of my friends ended up crawling around a cliff edge to get to the top and he went back to the top of the cave and helped everyone up. I felt dumb as a climber, but at least on the way down I had to figure out how to climb it by myself and I found a nice 3 finger pocket to lower myself down on.
Here is another random pic that I liked, it shows off the great honeycombing that is common there:
That cave above had a boulder problem in it, but it was too sketchy without a pad. One of my friends ended up crawling around a cliff edge to get to the top and he went back to the top of the cave and helped everyone up. I felt dumb as a climber, but at least on the way down I had to figure out how to climb it by myself and I found a nice 3 finger pocket to lower myself down on.
Here is another random pic that I liked, it shows off the great honeycombing that is common there:
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
