NE Climbing

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
Hefe
Posts: 77
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 7:29 pm

NE Climbing

Post by Hefe »

I am thinking about heading up to Hew Hampshire (maybe not NC) for my fall trip this year. Anyone have experience with those areas? I have done some online research and it looks like pretty impressive climbing...at least for what I am seeking.
Guest

Post by Guest »

Quartzite sucks!!!

Maybe you could hook up with Wild Bill.He's from up yon way.
air canada
Posts: 326
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2003 5:53 pm

Post by air canada »

The gunks is good-multipitch trad, by New Paltz in NY.
Whitehorse and Catherdral Ledge by North Conway in NH.
Don't know much about bouldering or sport climbing up there, although there is supposed to be some good bouldering by the gunks and I've heard good things about Rumney for sport.
Never mess with a local!
Steve
Posts: 1745
Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2002 1:34 am

Post by Steve »

Hey hefe you should check out the gunks for fun mulit-pitch climbing and super fun roof pulling excitement. If you want to hone your slab technique then head to Whitehorse and Cathedral in beautiful touristy North Conway. Each place is different so it sorta depends on whatcha wanna climb. I've got a guide to those spots in NH if you'd like to study up before making your decision.
I see they are still lopping off mountains in Eastern Kentucky. Electricity isn't cheap.
merrick
Posts: 1678
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 10:01 pm

Post by merrick »

hefe,

if you are climbing in New Hampshire then north conway is a good place to base yourself. WhiteHorese(a granite slab area) and Cathedral (granite cracks, slabs, sport) are just a few minutes from town. There are a ton of other areas around there too. Camping is kind of annoying. YOu can get a 5 dollar for a week permit to camp on NF land but the camping is about 25 minutes from north conway(but close to some of the other crags). You can buy one at the EMS in town. If you have a golden eagle pass it will work in place of a pass. If you are equipped to camp in your car there is a walmart in town that is very convienient. Of course there are expensive and crowded pay campgrounds there too but I didn't check them out. You can get showers at a health club in town and internet at a variety of cafes and the library.

I suggest the rockfax guidebook if you are just going to be there for a bit. it is really nice. the older thick guidebook covers many more areas in white mountains but is harder to use.

Fall should be a good time to hit there. when i was there in the spring it was rainy and buggy.

Rumney is like an hour and half away and well worth checking out. Again the rockfax guidebook is key. just becuase it has tons of 13s, and incredible 14s, doesn't mean it is not packed with quality easier lines. it is pretty rad. there is a walmart in the town of rumney as well.

if you have any more specific questions let me know. i also have spent quite a bit of time at the gunks and could give you beta and probably hook you up with some locals if you decide to head that way.
Back from the Dead!
Hefe
Posts: 77
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 7:29 pm

Post by Hefe »

Thanks everyone!
canadaclimbergirl
Posts: 742
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2003 7:15 pm

Post by canadaclimbergirl »

There is cheap camping in Rumney. Across from the parking lot is a house, and you just go knock on the door and tell them you are climbing and wish to camp. They have a big field with a couple of porta pottys, but no other facilites. There is a river at the base of the field to get some water at as well....I didn't drink it but it seemed fine for using to wash dishes and boil to sponge bath with. I think the camping was 8$ a night. You can leave your car there and walk to the climbing so you don't have to pay the 5$ a day parking fee.

the climbing in Rumney is stellar. lots of lines...easy and super hard. North Conway....slabs galore.....scary too. but really nice.

Also, the Gunks......amazing and Scary. most of the first pitches are polished with lots of rubber laying around...and don't forget about the New Yorkers with cell phones belaying like they are king shit. However.....I enjoyed all of the second pitches of climbs 10x more than the first pitches. they are not climbed as often, and offer amazing views and stellar rock.

Did I mention that the Gunks are Scary?????

Have fun!!
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman
Meadows
Posts: 5395
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:03 pm

Post by Meadows »

Look at www.neclimbs.com - there is a forum there and the guy who owns the site, Al Hospers, is a really nice guy and knows about the climbing in the area. There's also a really cool webcam on Cathedral.

Have fun! I am heading there next week.
Guest

Post by Guest »

What do you mean webcam?like live action ordo you mean something else?
Meadows
Posts: 5395
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:03 pm

Post by Meadows »

Go check it out.
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