mai flakes r sketchy: epoxy question(s)
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woodchuck008
- Posts: 605
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:23 pm
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the lurkist
- Posts: 2240
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
word. wilson intellectually worked you chumps like a 40 hr week. He sounds smart.
I used Sika (I think) when I re inforced holds up at the now defunct Hominy Hole. Those were good routes and totally warranted the glue jobs. One hold was this cantilevered pad and half flake sticking out in space that was the object hold of this huge throw. If it had gone, the route would have been no more (trust me). I actually drilled a series of three holes directly under the flake, and glued in little pieces of all thread sp they stuck out under the flake, and then inpregnated these pieces with Sika and created this super structure under the hold and then spray painted it.
Chew on that, bitches.
I used Sika (I think) when I re inforced holds up at the now defunct Hominy Hole. Those were good routes and totally warranted the glue jobs. One hold was this cantilevered pad and half flake sticking out in space that was the object hold of this huge throw. If it had gone, the route would have been no more (trust me). I actually drilled a series of three holes directly under the flake, and glued in little pieces of all thread sp they stuck out under the flake, and then inpregnated these pieces with Sika and created this super structure under the hold and then spray painted it.
Chew on that, bitches.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Normie
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tbwilsonky
- Posts: 868
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 9:38 pm
Re: mai flakes r sketchy: epoxy question(s)
Where in london??? Next time I'm home I would like to check them out. Someone also told me there were some trad lines down there. Do you know anything about these?tbwilsonky wrote:i'm kinda developing a *number* of boulder problems near london and i've ran into a few roofs that could use some epoxy. i'm not typically a fan of glued problems, but there are a few *relative* classics that i want to 1) exist and 2) not crush my face in.
anybody have any suggestions for something cheap and functional?
-t
"Do it"
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tbwilsonky
- Posts: 868
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 9:38 pm
the current locale is a secret for reasons both selfish and pragmatic. for starters, access is a bit iffy and a climbing message board might not be the best place to ensure said access remains - whats the word? - accessible. of course, this begs the question of why i even mentioned the area on a message board in the first place...?
simple: secrets are only cool if other people know you're keeping it. what can i say? i'm a total douchebag. but rest assured once i make sure the place 'work', i will certainly share. what good is cleaning a bunch of boulders if other people don't get to climb them?
perhaps most importantly, i want to do all the really awesome problems to make sure people don't name them something terrible like "tuna turd" or "fifty words for a canker sore". nothing worse than climbing a classic named after the boobs of some random dude's mom.
but as a consolation prize there are a few cool problems down @ Bee Rock along the west side of the river. there is a charcoal black boulder on the river bank with a reeeeeallllly hard project (v10+) coming out the middle and a decent moderate (v6/7) on the arete. further down the trail, 20-30 yards into the woods there is a talus field on the left. probably 5-6 decent problems amidst a ton of crap. if you walk even further back there are some boulders in the narrows. i haven't checked em out yet, but a 238lb forest ranger guaranteed some 'phat' lines back there.
good hunting,
-t
simple: secrets are only cool if other people know you're keeping it. what can i say? i'm a total douchebag. but rest assured once i make sure the place 'work', i will certainly share. what good is cleaning a bunch of boulders if other people don't get to climb them?
perhaps most importantly, i want to do all the really awesome problems to make sure people don't name them something terrible like "tuna turd" or "fifty words for a canker sore". nothing worse than climbing a classic named after the boobs of some random dude's mom.
but as a consolation prize there are a few cool problems down @ Bee Rock along the west side of the river. there is a charcoal black boulder on the river bank with a reeeeeallllly hard project (v10+) coming out the middle and a decent moderate (v6/7) on the arete. further down the trail, 20-30 yards into the woods there is a talus field on the left. probably 5-6 decent problems amidst a ton of crap. if you walk even further back there are some boulders in the narrows. i haven't checked em out yet, but a 238lb forest ranger guaranteed some 'phat' lines back there.
good hunting,
-t
haunted.
wow after SCIN's words tbwilsonky grew some big balls. Chuck would have been talking shit from the beginning... also chuck doesnt ask questions, he makes questions.
why the hell do all of you care about some stupid boulders? dont we have world class sport and trad climbs some where around here? i think it is a secret place around the d. boone national forest. i am going out on a limb and saying it is called the Ed's River Gorge (ERG)... i could be wrong...
why the hell do all of you care about some stupid boulders? dont we have world class sport and trad climbs some where around here? i think it is a secret place around the d. boone national forest. i am going out on a limb and saying it is called the Ed's River Gorge (ERG)... i could be wrong...