KD wrote:got distracted and forgot to completely tie-in once - was able to clip direct to a bolt and remedy. gotta follow proceedures same way every time
right on, but i don't recommend repeating that one! double check double check; i'm still in the process of teaching that to some of my superiors!
efil lanrete... i enjoy the sound, but in truth i find this seductively backward idea to be quite frightening
A stoned-ass friend of mine forgot to finish his knot before getting on Convicted once. He had to clip himself to the 3rd bolt and remedy the situation. The funny (not funny ha ha, of course) thing was--he didn't even notice until we pointed it out! Same day--his climbing partner dropped a draw at the 5th bolt of Kick Me in the Jimmie and it almost landed on my head. Needless to say, I stayed away from them the rest of the day.
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
woodchuck008 wrote:300 footer, seriously. June '79.
the devil's in the details. do tell.
?? I thought I did above. Tetons. Free fall for 60ft, slide and tumble down steep snow/ice slope for the next 250'. Self arrest via ice axe was semi successful if you ignore the head and body beating injuries the tool provided.
woodchuck008 wrote:300 footer, seriously. June '79.
the devil's in the details. do tell.
?? I thought I did above. Tetons. Free fall for 60ft, slide and tumble down steep snow/ice slope for the next 250'. Self arrest via ice axe was semi successful if you ignore the head and body beating injuries the tool provided.
You still did not tell. Break out the prose. Weave a verbal tapestry. Think Dashiell Hammett or even George Lucas . . . "In a galaxy far far away . . . " Bring language to life man. This accident sounds epic.
I've been climbing for about a year and the worst thing that I've seen was a guy on to defy the laws of tradition...he had his foot around the rope and was reaching for a bolt and fell...i think he was at the last bolt before the anchors...anywho he turned upside down and hit his head on the wall...lots of blood but he was fine.
Oh, here's my story. TRed a 90 foot 5.12 onsight. Yelled take and began to sit back but felt something weird and grabbed back on. Knot came undone (probably didn't tie it all the way, but I really don't know), rope fell to the ground. Topped out the climb. 1)Felt embarassed 2)Got scared and cried for thirty minutes 3) tied back in and climbed another route.
