Stop hiding, start chipping?

Post by **ynot** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 1:16 am

Stand around and yell"free bolts! Free bolts and drills! "then watch the stampeede.

Post by **Wes** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 2:47 am

kneebar wrote:So the rock won't support a drilled pocket but will support a drilled sport clip?

The problem is that once you are through the patinia, the rock is really, really sandy and if you drilled a pocket, it would always be sandy on the inside, unless you epoxy it. So, you can manufacter routes (and there are a couple out there - one with three slammer two finger pockets in a row that were drilled), but it takes more then just drilling the hole. Personally, I don't care all that much, though routes that are just really hard all the way should probably be left alone, but if you have a great 5.11 with a 6 foot section of v8, an extra couple holes in the rock won't effect my sleep at night....

Post by **Shamis** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:11 am

I'm a big fan of chipping...if we're gonna bolt everything then what's the difference?

Post by **pigsteak** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 2:54 pm

Shamis wrote:I'm a big fan of chipping...if we're gonna bolt everything then what's the difference?

and in walks the drama queen...bolt "everything"? have you seen the untouched rock in the region. I am betting there are bolts in less than 5% of the cliff in the region...

bolt "everything".

another typical unstable drama queen using bad logic to come to a supposed "truth"...I also bet you voted for Obama.

Post by **pigsteak** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 2:55 pm

ynot wrote:Stand around and yell"free bolts! Free bolts and drills! "then watch the stampeede.

no stampede there. most so called climbers are self serving children, too lazy to bolt a line, let alone clean it. or build a trail to it. or even go to a sponsored trail day....

Post by **anticlmber** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 3:19 pm

jeez piggie, it must be lonely sitting around in your own shit unable to tell that the golden pool of praise surrounding you is just more of your shit.

Post by **Lateralus** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 6:06 pm

as mentioned the rock at the red doesn't support chipping without gluing. It's stupid to do it there, makes no sense at all. I've climbed some good limestone choss that had a few chipped holds here and there to remove blank sections on otherwise really good climbing, didn't bother me at all. Totally chipped lines? what a pain in the ass, too much work.

Post by **heroclimber** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:16 pm

Hell yeah, start chipping and gluing the hell out of the Red and soon it will be just like Rifle. (Granted, there are some pretty awsome chipped routes in Rifle). Then all the cool kids from Boulder will start flocking to the Red just like they do out here.

Post by **pigsteak** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 10:45 pm

I'm with lateralus...too much work

Post by **Rollo** » Sun Jan 11, 2009 2:06 am

anticlmber wrote:jeez piggie, it must be lonely sitting around in your own shit unable to tell that the golden pool of praise surrounding you is just more of your shit.

Brilliant!