Stop hiding, start chipping?
The problem is that once you are through the patinia, the rock is really, really sandy and if you drilled a pocket, it would always be sandy on the inside, unless you epoxy it. So, you can manufacter routes (and there are a couple out there - one with three slammer two finger pockets in a row that were drilled), but it takes more then just drilling the hole. Personally, I don't care all that much, though routes that are just really hard all the way should probably be left alone, but if you have a great 5.11 with a 6 foot section of v8, an extra couple holes in the rock won't effect my sleep at night....kneebar wrote:So the rock won't support a drilled pocket but will support a drilled sport clip?
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
and in walks the drama queen...bolt "everything"? have you seen the untouched rock in the region. I am betting there are bolts in less than 5% of the cliff in the region...Shamis wrote:I'm a big fan of chipping...if we're gonna bolt everything then what's the difference?
bolt "everything".
another typical unstable drama queen using bad logic to come to a supposed "truth"...I also bet you voted for Obama.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
no stampede there. most so called climbers are self serving children, too lazy to bolt a line, let alone clean it. or build a trail to it. or even go to a sponsored trail day....ynot wrote:Stand around and yell"free bolts! Free bolts and drills! "then watch the stampeede.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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as mentioned the rock at the red doesn't support chipping without gluing. It's stupid to do it there, makes no sense at all. I've climbed some good limestone choss that had a few chipped holds here and there to remove blank sections on otherwise really good climbing, didn't bother me at all. Totally chipped lines? what a pain in the ass, too much work.
"Good things take time, impossible things take a little longer"
Percy Gerutty
Percy Gerutty
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