Which type of climbing style is the hardest?

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?

If you were about to climb a route which was at the extreme of your climbing ability, which type of protection do you think would make this route the MOST DIFFICULT for you to redpoint?

Bolted Protection (Draws)
1
2%
No Protection (not even a crashpad)
16
32%
Top Rope (with No Unclipping)
8
16%
Traditional Protection (Cams & Nuts)
25
50%
 
Total votes: 50

Horatio Felacio
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Post by Horatio Felacio »

also, i voted for trad, because there is a higher percentage of routes with placements that have been more strenuous for me vs. clipping a pre-hung draw.
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512OW
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Post by 512OW »

Horatio Felacio wrote:also, i voted for trad, because there is a higher percentage of routes with placements that have been more strenuous for me vs. clipping a pre-hung draw.
But doesn't "at your limit" still equal "at your limit", regardless of the style, number, or reason?
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Ascentionist
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Post by Ascentionist »

512OW wrote:.

However, most cracks don't deserve a higher grade for gear placement. There isn't a single placement that ups the grade on The Inhibitor, Rock Wars, Hidden Dragon, Welcome To Ole Kentuck, blah blah blah.
The little quiz thingy did say "at your limit". From a personal standpoint, and not a "climbing community grade consensus" standpoint, when I am climbing at my limit it is harder for me to flash a route:

1) Placing gear
2) Clipping draws
3) Top roping (because as Ray says the rope gets in the way)
4) Bouldering

My hardest free moves to date are on a boulder, my next hardest moves were on top rope, then sport, then trad.

It's not that I think placing gear makes a route technically harder. I agree completely that gear placements do not change the overall grade. But for my personal effort at my limit there is a difference.

If I'm barely making the moves I am more likely to fail if I have to fiddle with a camlock (if you don't know, don't ask). If I can drop the rope in a prehung draw then I can conserve energy for the send. Didn't change the movement over stone, just the energy required to do so.

If pro didn't matter then there wouldn't have been such a fuss over the ethics of yo-yoing vs. redpointing vs. onsighting vs. top roping vs. soloing throughout the history of technical rock climbing.
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mcrib
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Post by mcrib »

this is thread is fucking retarded.
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512OW
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Post by 512OW »

Ascentionist wrote:
512OW wrote:.

However, most cracks don't deserve a higher grade for gear placement. There isn't a single placement that ups the grade on The Inhibitor, Rock Wars, Hidden Dragon, Welcome To Ole Kentuck, blah blah blah.
The little quiz thingy did say "at your limit". From a personal standpoint, and not a "climbing community grade consensus" standpoint, when I am climbing at my limit it is harder for me to flash a route:

1) Placing gear
2) Clipping draws
3) Top roping (because as Ray says the rope gets in the way)
4) Bouldering

My hardest free moves to date are on a boulder, my next hardest moves were on top rope, then sport, then trad.

It's not that I think placing gear makes a route technically harder. I agree completely that gear placements do not change the overall grade. But for my personal effort at my limit there is a difference.

If I'm barely making the moves I am more likely to fail if I have to fiddle with a camlock (if you don't know, don't ask). If I can drop the rope in a prehung draw then I can conserve energy for the send. Didn't change the movement over stone, just the energy required to do so.

If pro didn't matter then there wouldn't have been such a fuss over the ethics of yo-yoing vs. redpointing vs. onsighting vs. top roping vs. soloing throughout the history of technical rock climbing.
You're still using the term "at your limit" to mean the difficulty of the moves... but that isn't what was asked, or should be asked. In any type of climbing, you can't boil it down to only the moves... and since all things are involved, "at your limit" should be a combination of all things. While "at your limit" may be a different number for each discipline, "at your limit" is still "at your limit".
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
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Horatio Felacio
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Post by Horatio Felacio »

512OW wrote:
Horatio Felacio wrote:also, i voted for trad, because there is a higher percentage of routes with placements that have been more strenuous for me vs. clipping a pre-hung draw.
But doesn't "at your limit" still equal "at your limit", regardless of the style, number, or reason?
i really have no idea what you are talking about. in fact, i just read the question to the poll, and have no idea what it means, nor what this poll is about.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
512OW
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Post by 512OW »

Its about lemon trees and pumpernickel bread. Duh.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

Horatio Felacio wrote:also, i voted for trad, because there is a higher percentage of routes with placements that have been more strenuous for me vs. clipping a pre-hung draw.
But what if, as was said before, you mechanize up the redundancy in (reference just_climb's post from last Tuesday) and try to determine through your placements whether you are truly satisfying the concepts of said free climbing as was done in the latter years on rock climbs which may not really be true free climbs at all. Answer that Matt.
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512OW
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Post by 512OW »

K-Mart. Definitely K-Mart.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
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woodchuck008
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Post by woodchuck008 »

Butt naked trad. This thread could go on for months and there still will be no clear decision. Nice poll to get us all fired up again.
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