Bolt the cracks and stop hiding...

Post by **ynot** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 4:51 pm

They all got tired of packing around a rack. A dozen draws don't weigh much.

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 5:00 pm

They all woke up and realize trad is like bouldering....just practice for the real deal...clipping bolts

Post by **Fartspray** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 5:12 pm

pigsteak wrote:They all woke up and realize trad is like bouldering....just practice for the real deal...clipping bolts

"They all " probably did not and shall not. They are so Cool in their Special form of brave climbing. Maybe they will someday see the LIGHT like our brave originator of this thread.

Post by **elcapitan1974** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 4:35 pm

pigsteak wrote:They all woke up and realize trad is like bouldering....just practice for the real deal...clipping bolts

The problem with this mentality piggy is, sport climbing is more like bouldering. You do one boulder problem after another just clipping bolts in between.

Post by **512OW** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:00 am

jlutotherescue wrote:maybe instead of using trad as the word to describe a route we should be saying "gear protected" or better yet SPORT!

ive projected gear protected lines, sat on cams, taken falls, and spents multiple days on some routes and in my opinion......thats sport style. i might be placing gear but there is nothing traditional about an ascent that way.

this is new school!

What about all the yo-yoing and bullshit that was accepted as "trad" back in the day? Thats a far inferior type of ascent than a "worked" one, in my opinion.

Post by **512OW** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:00 am

L Day wrote:
512OW wrote:
Myke Dronez wrote:so is it cool to poach a bolted crack with gear if its redtagged by an equipper? the quandary continues-
Yeah, but none of the "traddies" in the Red climb harder than 5.10, so I'm not worried...
So what happened to the traddies that could climb? Did all of them either move away or turn into sport weenies? I guess you're not counting those who, ahem, "swing both ways". I mean climb sport and trad.

They climbed the place out. There are only 7 cracks here worth doing...

Post by **L Day** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 3:54 pm

Sadly, that's only a slight exaggeration. You know I dig some of the more "out there" traditionally protected lines, but I can't imagine doing trad routes exclusively in the red today. You'd have to be some kind of dope to not have any interest in sport climbing in the gorge.

Sport is where it's at today, at least in Kentucky. Just beware the incredible shrinking balls syndrome. Don't let it claim you as it's next victim.

Post by **512OW** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 4:00 pm

L Day wrote:Sadly, that's only a slight exaggeration. You know I dig some of the more "out there" traditionally protected lines, but I can't imagine doing trad routes exclusively in the red today. You'd have to be some kind of dope to not have any interest in sport climbing in the gorge.

Sport is where it's at today, at least in Kentucky. Just beware the incredible shrinking balls syndrome. Don't let it claim you as it's next victim.

Word to that.

Post by JR » Tue Jan 06, 2009 5:39 pm

L Day wrote: You'd have to be some kind of dope to not have any interest in sport climbing in the gorge.

Amen.

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 5:58 pm

JR wrote:
L Day wrote: You'd have to be some kind of dope to not have any interest in sport climbing in the gorge.
Amen.

I'm telling you folks...people who call themselves traddies and reside at the Red are kidding themselves. REAL climbing in these parts is clipping bolts. trad is mere practice.

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Bolt the cracks and stop hiding...

Fanatical Trad may sooth the damaged ego of sucking @ sport