Sustainable route development

Post by **bcombs** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:29 pm

ynot wrote:... Fadda is an exception.

I got 3/4 of the way up before I remembered it was a trad line and I had a job to do that I was ignoring. Good thing it's easy.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:32 pm

I sometimes forget to clip bolts and I'm looking for pro until my belayor yells at me.

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:44 pm

remind me to never climb with you guys who can't keep your concentration.

Post by **Myke Dronez** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 10:23 pm

ahab wrote:the guy asks about the future of route deveolpment in the red and the next thing you know cracks are getting bolted!

Is nothing safe from the drill? Shall we do away with R rated climbs? What will become of the bold ascent? is that when you only stick clip the first?

Post by **ynot** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 11:13 pm

The R routes in the national forest are remaining ,but the trend on private land is away from that. It's OK all those old routes would see a lot more traffic if they weren't R. Some of them are pretty good.

Post by **schwagpad** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 2:18 am

pigsteak wrote:is this answering your question schwag? or are you getting at something like this...I walk up to a cliff, one where we have access. I spot a beautiful area with potential for 10-15 sport lines. But then I gaze into the future, and see climbers fifty years from now enjoying that process of developing, so instead of throwing in some bolts, I call together a band of brothers, and hasten them to save this crag for future generations..is that along the lines of your thinking?

I don't know...it was pretty idle insomniac thinking. Truth was, I was reading this book called Cradle to Cradle (worth the read) and was thinking about preservation issues, and then was fondly remembering the routes I put up in the red and one thing led to another...

The thought of a completely tapped red river gorge is a scary one. It would be the end of an era whether it happens in ten years or three generations. Fact is, barring a catastrophe it will happen.

I was also thinking, if the Red were bolted like Boulder Canyon there would be at least 10,000 routes left. That's something to look forward to...

Post by **schwagpad** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 2:20 am

er not.

Post by **caribe** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 3:12 am

Myke Dronez wrote:
ahab wrote:the guy asks about the future of route deveolpment in the red and the next thing you know cracks are getting bolted!
Is nothing safe from the drill? Shall we do away with R rated climbs? What will become of the bold ascent? is that when you only stick clip the first?

Okay you two with your, aesthetics and ethics. Do I have to remind you where the door is?

, well, do I?

Post by **512OW** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 3:13 am

ynot wrote:Because bolting a whole protectable crack is lame. A protectable face could go either way. Most of them I have done didn't protect that well. Face Farce American Wall and the one up at Purple come to mind. Fadda is an exception.

Depends on your protection skills. I think American Wall can be easily overprotected. I've placed something like 23 different pieces, all solid, on that route, just to see how many I could use...

Post by **caribe** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 3:13 am

Green roofs, green coal

green climbing? There are areas older and smaller than the red that have aged into zero development. I imagine the same thing would happen to the red only the asymptote will be approached slower.