bolted solo

Post by **rockman** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 3:39 pm

learning to do something intricate and dangerous by reading a forum = awesome.

Post by **Crankmas** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 4:32 pm

is this some strange new form of therapy? Bob

Post by **krampus** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 4:46 pm

its called evolution therapy

Post by KD » Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:00 pm

redpoint - if i dont have a grigri, can i use an atc or a figure eight or something? i guess i could pull the rope real fast or grab a loop if i fell.

Post by **Wes** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:06 pm

Isn't this thread just crying for a photo of the misty pads?

charlie wrote:
pigsteak wrote:now, if you have done sick solo's of trad an sport other places, please share with us how you built your anchors there.....
No, please don't.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:07 pm

Locking biner on first bolt, equalized and clove hitched locker on second bolt, climb and be happy!

If there is a good sturdy tree near the base I use it with a friction knot around the tree so the rope doesn't slip up if I fall.

I have rope soloed tons of routes in RRG both trad and sport.

Post by **Danny** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 7:18 pm

I use a sling with a friction knot on the first piece of pro that I can get good enough of a rest on to take the slack out of the system.

If you are using a grigri I think the most important thing to learn is how to pull slack with only one arm free. I have found 2 ways that work pretty well. 1. If you can push the grigri into the rock with your waist you can keep it from locking up while you pull slack. 2. You can bite the rope with your teeth and pull out slack while holding the grigri with the free hand.

Post by KD » Tue Dec 23, 2008 7:34 pm

Danny wrote: free. I have found 2 ways that work pretty well. 1. If you can push the grigri into the rock with your waist you can keep it from locking up while you pull slack. 2. You can bite the rope with your teeth and pull out slack while holding the grigri with the free hand.

the teeth way sounds the coolest! I'm gonna do that.

Post by **Redpoint** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 10:15 pm

KD wrote:redpoint - if i dont have a grigri, can i use an atc or a figure eight or something? i guess i could pull the rope real fast or grab a loop if i fell.

KD, why do you always act like the loop technique is retarded when in actuality, if you use that technique with a silent partner, it is the safest way to solo, if you could even call it safe.

The ATC figure 8 thing had to be a joke, but you could use a ATC and keep tieing knots in the end of the brake side of the rope, but you would have to be crazy to do that considering one of the knots might slip through the ATC's larger holes. If you tied double figure eights instead of overhand knots it wouldn't be as crazy though.

Post by **Redpoint** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 11:20 pm

Danny wrote:I use a sling with a friction knot on the first piece of pro that I can get good enough of a rest on to take the slack out of the system.

If you are using a grigri I think the most important thing to learn is how to pull slack with only one arm free. I have found 2 ways that work pretty well. 1. If you can push the grigri into the rock with your waist you can keep it from locking up while you pull slack. 2. You can bite the rope with your teeth and pull out slack while holding the grigri with the free hand.

The teeth way is similar to the way I do it, I pull up some slack and put it on my shoulder and bend my head pinching it between my sholuder and my head. I personally don't add a counter weight at the end of my slack end of the rope because it would make this technique more difficult.