Bouldering in the gorge

Post by **Myke Dronez** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 1:50 am

If traddies make it up there with packs full of hardware and coolers full of beer I'd like to think that boulderers could manage with a foam pad and a bag of weed.

Post by **izonjt** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:05 pm

Horatio Felacio wrote:trenchtown and buffalo farm are probably the most classic bouldering areas in the red. buy a copy of the bouldering guidebook.

Where do you actually buy a copy of this fabled guidebook?

Post by **woodchuck008** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 12:52 am

That slip slide up the roped section of mud going to Long Wall is crampon-friendly in the winter for we 'traddies. Bouldering, there is a great boulder problem right under 'Rock Wars' with a clean landing too, and you can solo the first 60 ft of the climb for excitement if you like crack climbs. Enjoy , oh, and see our thread on what thermos to take and what to put in it for a cold day.

Post by **Andrew** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:06 am

Indiana, or morehead.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 5:38 pm

Ho was being ironic. Those two areas are choss.

The guidebook is really hard to find. Best just to find some bouders and make it up as you go. SBR has some decent stuff. Torrent used to be a great place to boulder.

Post by **izonjt** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 7:18 pm

Pity about the guidebook.

These places worth checking out?

Emerald City:
http://extremz.com/main/archive/rock/bo ... doct99.htm

Lower Small Wall:
http://extremz.com/main/2000/Marpg21.html

Sky Bridge:
http://poc.purdue.org/docs/rrgbouldering.pdf

I'm familiar with The Pearl at Sky Bridge but I've not had the chance lately to check any of the other routes listed.

Post by **Rollo** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:18 pm

Andrew wrote:Indiana, or morehead.

Indiana is ironic as well... trust me.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:02 pm

izonjt wrote:These places worth checking out?

I think so, but many have argued over the years with me about it. Emerald City is great moderate bouldering that you can do circuits on and LSW has some ok problems. Hierarchy is one of the best problems in the Red and probably the best at the V1 grade for sure.

Ah, I almost miss the days of roaming purposefully around Indian Creek and Spaas Creek, looking for and climbing as many boulders as I could find.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:10 pm

Try this for a really cool, overhanging obtuse arete with an unclimbed steep thin face beside it:

37.884209Â°, -83.672127Â°

Beware: unless you like looking for stuff, don't bother, and I don't want to hear any whining. But the problem is on a nice looking boulder with great rock.