A slab question for bolters
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Myke Dronez
- Posts: 463
- Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 2:52 am
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captain static
- Posts: 2438
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
I did a search of the online guide for sport slabs and the only route fitting the description of the poster was "The Love Shack" at Purple Valley?
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
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captain static
- Posts: 2438
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
Now that we know what route this is report it on: http://teamsuckclimbing.com/ - contribute to the bolt fund, and wish for the bolt fairies to appear? Now that the foot approach to Purple Valley is longer people might be discouraged from hauling a drill, etc. up there.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
So, you want hangers removed from the route so that if you fall while soloing it you're not injured by the bolts? Comments about the oddity of your request aside, chances are that if you started to fall while soloing - even on a slab - you'd bounce down the wall in such a way that you'd miss the few bolts that are on it. Maybe you should be more concerned with clearing all the rhodos and boulders within a 15-foot radius of your sweet solo proj.
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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(Emails > PMs)
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(Emails > PMs)
I, and my two partners, had gone out to Purple Valley to do gear routes and maybe a few sport. Partner #2 was a Canadian Gunk's climbing who attached himself to us on arrival and was subverting partner #1 from participating in ANYTHING that involved a crack. The latter was getting a fast education in the game of climbing. He is one of the few partners I have who I would back off of a climb needlessly for and the vibe was getting a little distracting toward any amount of climbing. It took nearly seven hours to do the first climb we stopped under, and 5.11 gear route with a fun start out a roof. I afforded myself numerous smoke breaks in clearer air away from the squabble and ended up having an extended conversation with two locals leisurely doing some enjoyable easy routes near the slab. They pointed out the condition of the protection and also asked I refrain from an attempt in their presence. All things considered I did 1 route, #2 did I route, and #1 participated in both. That was it all loving day.
I had no qualms about doing the route with or without a rope but know when a bad air could follow and backed off for numerous reasons. Though I appreciate the hard edged humor and requisite boldness needed to climb in the Red, stubbing a toe or making the base pretty failed to make the list. The climb started to haunt me a little and due to bolting regulations and the largesse of slab noted above I started to wonder if it would stay the same. Somewhere I specified I was not advocating replacing the hardware and tried to inquire if my head would piked if a bolt came out in my hand upon inspection. I can be dumb as my name implies.
I had no qualms about doing the route with or without a rope but know when a bad air could follow and backed off for numerous reasons. Though I appreciate the hard edged humor and requisite boldness needed to climb in the Red, stubbing a toe or making the base pretty failed to make the list. The climb started to haunt me a little and due to bolting regulations and the largesse of slab noted above I started to wonder if it would stay the same. Somewhere I specified I was not advocating replacing the hardware and tried to inquire if my head would piked if a bolt came out in my hand upon inspection. I can be dumb as my name implies.
