Article--The Mental Toughness Error

[arno]

by Arno Ilgner
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Craig was pumped and needed to make a decision quickly. His last protection was a bolt ten feet down and to his right. He couldn’t see the crack for his next protection placement, but he knew it was just over the bulge above him. He knew about the crack because he had previously climbed this route, Zoo View, on Moores Wall in North Carolina. In fact, he had not had any difficulty climbing it, but he was having difficulty now. The climbing to this point didn’t quite seem the same as he remembered. Last time he recalled stepping down and traversing left, but now the holds were unfamiliar. Craig could feel his strength waning, but since he was absolutely sure the crack would be above the bulge, he committed. He climbed deliberately on the small holds over the bulge, but the crack wasn’t there; it was ten feet to his right. He had traversed too far left. He was on a precarious perch running out of strength, when his hand slipped and he fell. Craig fell and swung into an arête hitting his pelvis, back, and head. Fortunately he was wearing a helmet and didn’t break anything, escaping the incident only badly bruised.

It would seem as if Craig was being mentally tough by staying focused on the goal and not letting fear or the pump distract him; yet, that mental toughness resulted in a terrible fall and barely escaping a serious injury. When we think of being mentally tough we envision someone whose mind has power over one’s body. It’s a mind over matter approach. We envision the climber staying committed to the goal without giving in to the desire to quit.

This mind-over-matter approach caused Craig’s mind to perceive the situation as he wished it to be, not as it actually was. With a mind-over-matter approach you rely on what your mind knows from past experience. This can be helpful to a degree in doing risk assessment, but it can interfere with perceiving the situation as it is now. This is what happened to Craig. He had climbed Zoo View before. He engaged Zoo View the second time with mental perceptions that he was “absolutely sure where the route wentâ€

[Andrew]

Zoo View. Great route, at one the best crags in america. That little section on Zoo view is kind of hard and comitting for a 5.7+. Zeus is probably the best route I have ever climbed, on a great cliff; tall, exposed, steep, powerful, technical, and very solid rock(Hanging Garden).

[512OW]

Andrew, that was a pathetic attempt at subtle spray, especially when you meant "Zeus is probably the best route I have ever climbed on... cuz we all know you never climbed it.

[Andrew]

Are you sure about that.

[JR]

Zeus is the best route. Andrew has redpointed routes. Someone has sent Zeus. There was successful climbing on the day that Andrew climbed on the route Zeus.

[JR]

Thanks for parable Arno. I will definitely wear my seatbelt from here on out.

[512OW]

Are you sure about that.

Yes, because you'd have subtle sprayed long before now.

[512OW]

Zeus is the best route. Andrew has redpointed routes. Someone has sent Zeus. There was successful climbing on the day that Andrew climbed on the route Zeus.

JR is correct, though it isn't really climbing for tall people. Its just reaching.

[512OW]

Arno, thanks. I've seen this situation many many times. The "mentally tough" thing to do is to be smart, not to let your ego lead you blindly into danger.

[Andrew]

Why do you guys have to bring everyone down. I am going to go cry myself to sleep.