safe anchors

Post by **Myke Dronez** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 12:24 am

What exactly is the benefit of webbing on bolted anchors? It has its place when it comes to slinging trees but seems like an unnecessary weak link next to bolt hangers and quicklinks- It slowly rots off the hardware and discourages clipping in directly to the bolts. Is there any reason not to re-equip hanger/webbing anchors with two quicklinks instead? Is this not essentially the same and just as safe as pair of rap hangers? IMO its worth the eight bucks to know something will be safe and long-lasting, rather than a slowly deteriorating time bomb.

Post by **512OW** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 12:46 am

Myke Dronez wrote:What exactly is the benefit of webbing on bolted anchors? It has its place when it comes to slinging trees but seems like an unnecessary weak link next to bolt hangers and quicklinks- It slowly rots off the hardware and discourages clipping in directly to the bolts. Is there any reason not to re-equip hanger/webbing anchors with two quicklinks instead? Is this not essentially the same and just as safe as pair of rap hangers? IMO its worth the eight bucks to know something will be safe and long-lasting, rather than a slowly deteriorating time bomb.

2 quicklinks for each bolt. Otherwise the rope can get pinned to the rock, and it will twist the hell out of your rope.

Post by **powen01** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 12:54 am

512OW wrote:
Myke Dronez wrote:What exactly is the benefit of webbing on bolted anchors? It has its place when it comes to slinging trees but seems like an unnecessary weak link next to bolt hangers and quicklinks- It slowly rots off the hardware and discourages clipping in directly to the bolts. Is there any reason not to re-equip hanger/webbing anchors with two quicklinks instead? Is this not essentially the same and just as safe as pair of rap hangers? IMO its worth the eight bucks to know something will be safe and long-lasting, rather than a slowly deteriorating time bomb.
2 quicklinks for each bolt. Otherwise the rope can get pinned to the rock, and it will twist the hell out of your rope.

I've wondered about these ideas as well, but what about an anchor like Diamond in the Crack? Last I remember, it's set far back and has long slings that extend almost to the lip with about 3-5 quicklinks as rap rings through the webbing.

I'm not advocating changing the setup or anything. Just wondering if because of the position of the anchor, it changes the viability of using quicklinks or if there is another reason that webbing is used for rapping off... Just a thought...

Post by **Myke Dronez** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 1:45 am

512OW wrote: 2 quicklinks for each bolt. Otherwise the rope can get pinned to the rock, and it will twist the hell out of your rope.

Got it. So the orientation of a bolt hanger dictates that a link will sit flat against the rock unless a second is added. I guess this is why ring anchors have special hangers so the ring doesn't sit flat?

Post by **woodchuck008** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 1:51 am

My 'bounce test' is taking a fall at every bolt I clip. Guess that should do just fine.

Post by **toad857** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 11:27 am

is there a single place or forum where people can go to report climbs with janky hardware? i feel like there is, but wouldn't know where to look...

Post by **the lurkist** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 12:01 pm

http://teamsuckclimbing.com/

Post by **Crankmas** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 1:58 pm

Versatile Universe is an exception to everything involving a logical anchor placement... perhaps chains or relocation

Post by **ynot** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 7:51 pm

Webbing added to bolted anchors is to make pulling the rope easier or possible. It gets old and suspect just like webbing around a tree. chain would be better. I like Danny's bounce test. just be sure to have a seperate anchor point while testing. Ideally ,carry extra webbing and a quiklink or ring to replace suspect webbing.

Post by **Josephine** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 10:16 pm

this is an e-mail i received when i contacted the company. i'm going to pass it along just in case someone is interested since the prices are not avl on their website:

Hello Josephine, here is the quote you requested, if you have any questions
please do not hesitate to contact me directly, my information is listed
below. Thank you & have a very pleasant day.

LCF-349-Z ( Tow Hook Forged 3/4" Eye )200 pcs. on hand
Qty. 1-9 ---------- $ 4.20 each
Qty. 10-24 -------- $ 3.40 each
Qty. 25 + -------- $ 2.90 each

LC-QL-12Z ( 3/8" Zinc Plated Quick Link ) 0 on hand / ETA 11/20/08
Qty. 1-24 ------------- $ 2.20 each
Qty. 25-49 ------------ $ 1.85 each
Qty. 50 + ------------ $ 1.28 each

Please Note: Our Minimum Order is $ 125.00

Cordially,
Eddie Arias
U.S. RIGGING SUPPLY
CUSTOMER SERVICE SUPERVISOR
4001 W. CARRIAGE DR.
SANTA ANA, CA. 92704
714-545-7444 ext. 104
714-545-3311 (FAX)
E-mail: Eddie@usrigging.com

i kinda like the idea of putting some of the lowering hooks on my favorite routes - but as i am a poor unemployed college student right now i don't know if/when i'll actually get around to actually doing anything about it.