who the f@&$ put extra bolts on swingline!
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who the f@&$ put extra bolts on swingline!
someone has put two extra bolts in the crux of swingline! This makes the crux clip easier to clip and now you can work the moves! This is totally unfair, I was not given this oppertunity, I could not work the moves and had to run the crux out! It is now safer and more logical, this is bull I demand whoever put those bolts in to take them out. Furthermore when I showed up yesterday my double draw had been removed from the "true" crux bolt! I hate you "ghost bolter"!
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That is ridiculous and unnecessary because the route was completely safe and doable for a 13+ climber as it was. I happily took numerous whips at the crux before linking the route and I don't understand why someone would feel possessed to eliminate that fun. It is supposed to be a challenge. It is supposed to require some persistence. You are supposed to take falls and work hard to climb your project. I haven't seen the new bolts, but I know that there is no reason to fix something that is not broken and for me this type of thing tends to ruin the aesthetic of a route. I guess I'm not philisophically attached to one ethic or another, but I definitely lean towards minimalism, and this sort of alteration of a great, and safe route just seems lame.
In Boulder Canyon, where I climb often now, it is this kind of impulse that has marred what could be one of the coolest climbing areas in the states. It is retrobolted and overbolted to the point that you lose the appeal of the natural lines. You just see lines and lines of bolts. You lose the mental challenge and commitment of climbing to the next natural clipping stance in favor of always having a bolt at your knees or above. There is no provably better ethic here, but I like it better when there are natural lines that force you into a little commitment.
In Boulder Canyon, where I climb often now, it is this kind of impulse that has marred what could be one of the coolest climbing areas in the states. It is retrobolted and overbolted to the point that you lose the appeal of the natural lines. You just see lines and lines of bolts. You lose the mental challenge and commitment of climbing to the next natural clipping stance in favor of always having a bolt at your knees or above. There is no provably better ethic here, but I like it better when there are natural lines that force you into a little commitment.
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