I agree with Artsay in that the Red is a sport climbing mecca and as it stands currently fixed draws are the norm. If we have them, having steel biners on them that stand up to seasons of use seems prudent.
However, I think the bigger issue here is judgment. It is probably safe to say everyone who has contributed to this thread is a seasoned vet, both trad and sport climbing and has made it through their formative years not having made critical errors in judgment. I know I had a few close calls that I caught in time or survived and learned from.
Is there a larger community responsibility to foster a sense of personal responsibility and frankly instilling throughout the community a sense of mistrust of fixed gear, so that we can pass on to younger less experienced generations this crucial/ critical mistrust? Should we return to an ethic of "you haven't done a route until you hung the draws" if nothing more than to encourage everyone using their own gear. I can't help but wonder what role disregard for the mistrust fixed slings and assumptions that all webbing is safe and structurally sound played in the recent tragedy.
By encouraging use of fixed gear are we inviting another potential tragedy- maybe next time occurring on a sport route?
I feel that climbing safety is all a matter of mechanisms that you practice every single time, minimizing the possibility of catastrophic failure. I know I invoke Terry often, but he and I discussed it many times and as he would tell me, "I am a pilot. By definition I am a professional risk manager. I go through check lists with climbing just like I do with flying."
I am suggesting that closing the loophole of fixed gear and the question mark it presents will eliminate one potential of failure, and hopefully re instill an ethic of mistrust for fixed gear which possibly has been lost for younger generations of climbers.
That said, like Ray pointed out, there are routes that probably require fixed gear. But, across the board , could we or should we minimize it?
Steel Biner Replacement in the Red
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the lurkist
- Posts: 2240
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
great post, Hugh. Furthermore, on routes where fixed gear is 'required' are chain draws an option? I'm not sure if that is the right terminology, but I've seen them in photos more and more lately. Can't they be added to existing bolt hangers with a quick link and some locktite?
climbing is dumb
~ Sandy
~ Sandy
I am not arguing against the practice but I am saying that it creates dangerous situations. People who get on a route with fixed draws with the goal of sending it do not stop to look at the draws for wear. on top of that there are people who just don't pay attention. I know people have fallen and broken biners on at least two routes at the lode in the last two or three years. that is my arguement against the practice. Are there enough people who are willing to police routes and replace bad draws to make fixed draws safe?
"I just want to disappear"
Yet again this reminds me of a point I try to make that many people get angry about. We need to work to maintain our sport climbing infrastructure at the red at as fast or even faster pace then new route development. Can we stop new route development for just a few short months this winter and concentrate on getting all exisiting routes up to date? I will gladly donate cash to the project, as I have in the past. Team Suck?
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist