Here Comes Batman

Post by **captain static** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 11:34 am

It was was done in the style of what today is called a headpoint. As I recall I tried it on TR one weekend, came back the next weekend and worked out the top OW moves, and then came back the next weekend and lead the climb.

I know, blasphemy in those days.

Post by **L Day** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 5:50 pm

Blashphemy? Not really. It wasn't at all uncommon to throw a top rope on one pitch test pieces back then. At least the climbers I knew did it, me included. That said, the vast majority of the early routes in the Red were put up on-sight.

I toproped The Prow and Meteor Maker (this one was lead something like 6 or 8 years after the TR) before leading them. Same thing with Fallout, top-roped it , then lead it a number of years later. Of course I did do a couple of scarey onsights, but they weren't Xs.

So you did the first 5.11. I did the first on-sight 5.11 (Insanity Ceiling). At least as far as we know. Good on bofus, I guess.

Post by **Myke Dronez** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:37 pm

It lives.

Post by **captain static** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 9:11 pm

One thing you can add on the history of Batman is that the UC Mountaineering Club, of which I was a member, had just purchased a full set of Forrest Titons. I placed a #1 Titon in the back of the flaring crack just before pulling through the crux. That was likely purely psychological protection but it gave me enough of a head to finish the lead.

Post by **captain static** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 12:50 pm

Larry, did you use SLCD's on the FA of Insanity Ceiling?