Which knot do you tie?

[Myke Dronez]

I have come to love a double bowline (ex. b, two loops) after spending way too much time trying to untie 8's and resorting to carrying around pliers. I even tried a water bowline (on a clove hitch) but prefer the ease and simplicity of the double. I've taken many a big fall on this knot and its always fairly easy to untie while pumped, in ropes new and old. Who gives a f about what knot is stronger, they're all strong enough- tomato tomahto.

[schwagpad]

I decided to only tie the figure eight after a near-death experience caused presumably by my own error that I think could have been avoided had I tied a figure eight. The situation was exactly what I pointed out, that my belayer checked my knot, but didn't know the bowline, and didn't know if it was correct. Whatever happened, at the top of the route my knot was untied. This is not a very uncommon scenario. Again, since human error is often to blame, I choose to tie the knot that is less susceptible to human error. I wouldn't give anyone trouble for tying a bowline, it's just not what I do, and not what I would suggest for someone getting into climbing.

[Brentucky]

I have come to love a double bowline (ex. b, two loops) after spending way too much time trying to untie 8's and resorting to carrying around pliers. I even tried a water bowline (on a clove hitch) but prefer the ease and simplicity of the double. I've taken many a big fall on this knot and its always fairly easy to untie while pumped, in ropes new and old. Who gives a f about what knot is stronger, they're all strong enough- tomato tomahto.

shit dronez, i remember that one "bowline" you tied! it took like 3 people and 40 minutes to get that thing undone!

[pigsteak]

I bet those who climb upper 12's and higher all use the double bowline. it is the only knot approved for REAL climbers.

brentucky, can I give you a soft catch this weekend? I promise.

[512OW]

I bet those who climb upper 12's and higher all use the double bowline. it is the only knot approved for REAL climbers.

brentucky, can I give you a soft catch this weekend? I promise.

No way man. 8 with a Yosemite finish. The finish keeps it from cinching up in the case of a fall, and I've never once had a problem untying it, unless I'm just too pumped to do anything.

[512OW]

This guy apparently likes the 8 as well...

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes ... Sharma.jpg

[michaelarmand]

+1 for keep it simple and use the 8.

And I've taken plenty of falls - never had an issue getting the knot undone.

[pigsteak]

that is one of the coolest photos ever.

[Myke Dronez]

shit dronez, i remember that one "bowline" you tied! it took like 3 people and 40 minutes to get that thing undone!

Yeah tucky, that was an experimental knot I was having Jacob test- thats why I let him take all those lobs. Once you overcome your fear of the big whip you'll feel our pain with the cinched knots.

Seriously though, why do some people consistently have trouble with a cinched eight while others say its fine? Is there a variation in the orientation/rethread that causes this? I was gonna stab a hole in my hand with a pair of needlenose pliers so I sought other options.

[Meadows]

If you're climbing at your limit (which means you will be falling a lot) with a 9.8m or smaller rope then using an 8 is going to suck.

Not true ... I have a 9.5 and I use the figure 8 half of the time with no problem. I back the tail through the 8 to prevent the 8 from cinching down too tight.

Also, my bowline is doubled through the harness rather than in the knot. Is that called the single?