Dialed Gear

Post by JB » Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:10 pm

wasn't talking to you larry... but to pkananen. "traditional" climbing is a slippery definition and doesn't make sense half the time.

does a compressor strapped to the side of a spire or a line of bolts on el-cap not qualify as traditional climbing. nut-craft is definitely not the most "traditional" method of climbing. Cams were once derided as bringing the sport down and rap bolting is still frowned upon in many areas. Exum would only use a bowline tied around his waist even in the 80s, that's pretty damn traditional. Maybe pre-placing gear but climbing with a swami and hobnails is the only way to qualify as a "trad" climb. All these definitions and numbers are just a way to make climbing just another sad sport. But hey, it's good for the internet BB business.

on another note... i love to see SCIN and 512OW responses when i think back 10 years or so ago to their responses on KyWilderness!! Mellowed out Yo-Yos!

Post by **charlie** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:34 pm

JB wrote:.....on another note... i love to see SCIN and 512OW responses when i think back 10 years or so ago to their responses on KyWilderness!! Mellowed out Yo-Yos!

Post by **pkananen** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:43 pm

JB wrote:wasn't talking to you larry... but to pkananen. "traditional" climbing is a slippery definition and doesn't make sense half the time.

does a compressor strapped to the side of a spire or a line of bolts on el-cap not qualify as traditional climbing. nut-craft is definitely not the most "traditional" method of climbing. Cams were once derided as bringing the sport down and rap bolting is still frowned upon in many areas. Exum would only use a bowline tied around his waist even in the 80s, that's pretty damn traditional. Maybe pre-placing gear but climbing with a swami and hobnails is the only way to qualify as a "trad" climb. All these definitions and numbers are just a way to make climbing just another sad sport. But hey, it's good for the internet BB business.

on another note... i love to see SCIN and 512OW responses when i think back 10 years or so ago to their responses on KyWilderness!! Mellowed out Yo-Yos!

I didn't claim to have an exact definition. In fact, I said that most climbing terms are contrived, which is basically what everyone here has said as well. So yeah, it's a slippery definition. To me "traditional" means ground up, fixed or natural protection unknown aside from inspection from the ground, additional protection placed on lead. I think the wikipedia entry for traditional climbing says it is "exploratory", which seems like a good description. But like 512OW said, it's all just climbing.

Post by **512OW** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:51 pm

JB wrote:on another note... i love to see SCIN and 512OW responses when i think back 10 years or so ago to their responses on KyWilderness!! Mellowed out Yo-Yos!

You shut your mouth.

Post by **schwagpad** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 1:06 pm

Maybe it was a mistake getting into this rehearsed gear thing. A friend woke me up on the phone this morning asking if I wanted to try a 13+ 45-degree overhung crack in the Flatirons. I was so out of it and asleep that I said yes. Doh.

Post by JB » Tue Oct 07, 2008 2:06 pm

512OW wrote:
JB wrote:on another note... i love to see SCIN and 512OW responses when i think back 10 years or so ago to their responses on KyWilderness!! Mellowed out Yo-Yos!
You shut your mouth.

You're getting soft! HA!

Or as I once said: Bite me artist boy. I want my railroad hat back!

Post by **512OW** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 11:30 pm

Sheeeiiiit. When I swore off traditional climbing in exchange for bolts to clip.... that was the moment I began getting harder.

Post by **TradMike** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 12:45 pm

Ground up, onsite, multi-pitch trad is much more exciting, rewarding and memorable than getting one route dialed. It also lets you know what level you can really climb at in trad style.