Fall Trad tick list

Post by **L Day** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:58 pm

How about the first 11 to be onsighted in the Red? Easy approach, fun climbing, spectacular position, good rock, few ascents.

Post by **Wolf** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:10 pm

It's on my list. So are ToP and Last Day. But the list is very, very long, my time is getting shorter, and the tendinitis in my wrist hasn't completely healed yet.

Post by **512OW** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:42 pm

captain static wrote:
512OW wrote: You could crimp the inch deep toprope marks at the top, but I had ethics back then...
Those aren't toprope marks, they are grooves from rappellers pulling the rope. It is really too bad what rapellers and tourons have done to this area since the FS bought the farm at the mouth of Gladie Creek and built the visitors center, etc. The sand is from increased erosion along the top of the ridge from overuse. There was also a forest fire up there a few years back.

It didn't used to be that way when the farm was there and there was limited parking and access.

Haha... no, the sand was from the inside of the flare. Every inch of rock I touched fell apart onto my face. Its a water runoff....

The marks on top of Here Comes Batman are different from the marks rappellers leave. Go back and look.

I do know some guy... you know him Captain... from Rockquest years ago who was workin it on TR. My bet is that those marks are from that, and the UCMC TR'd there too, right?

Post by **Danny** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 2:33 am

Which 11 is that Larry? Cause one of these days I'm gonna go to the red and climb something any maybe I'll climb that, hehe.

Post by **captain static** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:56 am

512OW wrote:Haha... no, the sand was from the inside of the flare. Every inch of rock I touched fell apart onto my face. Its a water runoff....

The marks on top of Here Comes Batman are different from the marks rappellers leave. Go back and look.

I do know some guy... you know him Captain... from Rockquest years ago who was workin it on TR. My bet is that those marks are from that, and the UCMC TR'd there too, right?

The last person before you that I had goaded to get on it was Will Stites from Miami U and that had to be in the early to mid 90's. He attempted it once on lead and then we both gave it a TR burn. Someone I know from RQ may have been working it on TR but it wasn't something I was aware of? The UCMC TR'ed the easier Staircase Wall section.

When Stites & I were on it I don't remember it as being that sandy. Perhaps the touron impacts have increased the volume of runoff that in turn has eroded the surface patina of the rock?

Post by JB » Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:04 am

tourons have denuded the ridgetops around the staircase and without vegetation, there's nothing from keeping the sand from running down that water groove, er... route

Post by **TradMike** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:44 am

Same goes with Excalibur. The sand and mud is now caked on the route. The erosion up top has gotton bad.

Post by **captain static** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 12:18 pm

That's too bad about Excalibur. TK has that on his tick list and wanted me to climb it with him this autumn.

Post by **L Day** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 2:31 pm

Danny wrote:Which 11 is that Larry? Cause one of these days I'm gonna go to the red and climb something any maybe I'll climb that, hehe.

You've done it! Insanity Ceiling. Now go show everybody how to do Tower of Power. 512OW would be forever in your debt.

Post by **512OW** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:47 pm

And I'd probably make fun of you....