Shut down

Post by **p0bray01** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 2:02 pm

being a larger guy, who has always been strong I can deal with any holds that I can get my big meat hooks on...I am not even afraid to launch a dyno...but those tiny crimps and shallow pockets....not good...

Its funny how when you climb trad for such a long time you actually prefer and search for hand jams or even finger jams to jugs...

Post by **louisville_climber** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 6:05 pm

as long as it doesn't rain like it did yesterday...

Post by **512OW** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 6:46 pm

Its funny to me that people think "hand crack = easy". Apparently you all need to try harder hand cracks. If 5.12 is at your limit, can you still get "sweet relief" on a 5.12 handcrack? Doubt it.

Post by **Lander** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 7:59 pm

512OW wrote:Its funny to me that people think "hand crack = easy". Apparently you all need to try harder hand cracks. If 5.12 is at your limit, can you still get "sweet relief" on a 5.12 handcrack? Doubt it.

I don't just doubt it, mr. crackmaster. I know it. I was actually thinking of a lot of the reds sport climbs that have a horizontal or mail slot that make for a nice comfy hand jam. Some people that never climbed trad don't look for jams. I love it when I find one. Won't be getting on 5.12 crack any time soon.

Post by **pigsteak** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 9:56 pm

Lander wrote:
512OW wrote:Its funny to me that people think "hand crack = easy". Apparently you all need to try harder hand cracks. If 5.12 is at your limit, can you still get "sweet relief" on a 5.12 handcrack? Doubt it.
I don't just doubt it, mr. crackmaster. I know it. I was actually thinking of a lot of the reds sport climbs that have a horizontal or mail slot that make for a nice comfy hand jam. Some people that never climbed trad don't look for jams. I love it when I find one. Won't be getting on 5.12 crack any time soon.

that'd be me...why waste good skin off the back of yer hand?

Post by **512OW** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 11:25 pm

Lander wrote:
512OW wrote:Its funny to me that people think "hand crack = easy". Apparently you all need to try harder hand cracks. If 5.12 is at your limit, can you still get "sweet relief" on a 5.12 handcrack? Doubt it.
I don't just doubt it, mr. crackmaster. I know it. I was actually thinking of a lot of the reds sport climbs that have a horizontal or mail slot that make for a nice comfy hand jam. Some people that never climbed trad don't look for jams. I love it when I find one. Won't be getting on 5.12 crack any time soon.

A nice comfy hand jam slot is equivalent to about what... a 5.4 handcrack? That would hardly equal the crux of anything at the Red. The question was about the crux... and if the crux is a perfect handjam, then you're projecting 5.4. The "crux" handjam on a 5.12 wouldn't be one of those comfy hand jam resting slots...

Post by **Lander** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:04 am

OK, I see your point. Obviously, the crux hold on a climb, by definition will be 'bad' relative to the route, whether it be a hand jam, crimp, sloper,or whatever. So, for the sake of discussion, all things being equal, I'll take a 'bad' sloper or handcrack over a 'bad' crimp or finger crack. But hey, that's just me.

Post by **512OW** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:30 am

I chose massive dyno. If the choice had just been "dyno", I'm ok with it. Massive might be too much. I'm a short white guy.

Post by **ahab** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:23 am

it really depends on the type of climb. i've met a little of each with dread, but for me the slopers seem to really bring out the sketch. never can get a solid enough 'grip' to move on those things.

Post by **toad857** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:37 am

you gotta love a climb with a huge dyno crux

especially when you're hanging above the water w/ no rope....

RRC Archives

Shut down

You approach the crux on a climb at your limit. what would be your LEAST favorite hold/position to encounter at the crux?