Best 10's in the Red

Post by **StephyG** » Thu Oct 24, 2002 1:35 pm

I'm just embarking on 5.10 trad and am Looking for some good routes to push myself on. What are your favorite 10's (or 5.8+'s) in the Red? Any that stay dry in the rain?

Post by **captain static** » Thu Oct 24, 2002 3:02 pm

Doppler Effect & Rock Wars

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Oct 24, 2002 3:10 pm

What's Left of the Beeneling 5.10c
The Beeneling 5.10b
Return of Geoffe Beene 5.10d
The Quest 5.10c
The Battlement 5.10c
Doppler Effect 5.10b
A Fresh Start 5.10d
Rocket Man 5.8+
Close Encounters with a Wench 5.9+
Muscle Shoals 5.8+
Rock Rash 5.9+
Sam I Am 5.10d
Finger Lickin' Good 5.10c
AstroFlex 5.10a

Post by **Johnny** » Thu Oct 24, 2002 3:28 pm

Plus,

Vector Trouble
Capital Punishment
Brontosaurus
Long Live Trad
Headstone Surfer
Spider Wand
Double Trouble
and the classic 5.8+...Dicey at Best

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Oct 24, 2002 3:36 pm

So are these "5.8+" routes in actuality easy 10's then?

I know why that happened, but since the scale was expanded, why weren't the ratings changed to reflect the new standards?

Post by **rat-baby** » Thu Oct 24, 2002 3:39 pm

the Onyx, jungle beat, lizzrds dare, and it's a shame you never got to try lets brachatatfdhksasjfhgsafjuhgafljb vclueago or how ever you spell it.

Hey scin, I thought Muscle Shoals was 5.13. When they down rate it? wa wa wa

Post by **Artsay** » Thu Oct 24, 2002 4:02 pm

Lynne - I wouldn't call them easy by any means!

Post by **sparky** » Thu Oct 24, 2002 4:10 pm

they where changed, they added the + to denote
"hey this route can be mad hard"
and i kinda like the whole 5.8+ thing because it makes me take a more cerebral look at the route, but i do see your point Lynne the 8+ rating is deceiving.

Post by **Johnny** » Thu Oct 24, 2002 5:17 pm

Those particular 8+'s are the same rating because nobody (including me) bothered to climb them to change the rating. I guess Ray has a feel for offwidth ratings so I'd defer to him. I wonder how they compare to harder offwidths like Yuk and Last Day. Dicey at Best was the only route that I kept as 8+ for nostalgia's sake. It's probably 9+ or 10a by today's standards.

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Oct 24, 2002 5:29 pm

Yea, I'd say Muscle Beach is all out of whack as far as ratings go.
From my experience with the routes and seeing others climb them, knowing their abilities I'd say it's more like this up there (for the Big Five):

Carnivorous 5.8+ (book says 5.7)
Close Encounters with a Wench 5.9+ (book says 5.9+)
Muscle Shoals 5.10b (book says 5.8+)
Rock Rash 5.10a (book says 5.9+)
Rocket Man 5.10a (book says 5.8+)

You bet I'll still be telling people the book ratings though when they're climbing them.