Downhill
Started reading this thread and never saw the end (above NYT swimmer profile) coming. Coincidence, as my wife was pointing it out to me yesterday. Mainly because she (my wife) is 51 and getting ready to train for an ironman. Took her this long to determine what she wanted to do, and she will get through it because she will train appropriately and has the desire.
As for climbing and age, I agree with Mr. Steak; age plays a role, period. If only because that is how we determine how much use/abuse our body has taken. But I think that genetics are even more important in determining how hard and for how long. History of arthritis, any degenerative bone diseases, failing cardio, eyesight, et al. Eventually we all peak, it's just a matter of how long we stay can up there in the thin air before permanant damage.
I started at 40, took me a little over 4 years to get outside enough to climb 5.12 (barely). All while balancing work and family. A year or so later and the injuries started - nothing major, just nagging. Until nagging became so bad I had to do some rehab. They’re still there, but now I don't climb on plastic and train for general fitness; and I have maintained my generic sport level (11ish). Now I'm transitioning to trad so I'll have skills to keep climbing well into my later life (if I don't get hit by some mall sniper, or run over by a bus). And like Weber, as I've gotten older I enjoy the moderates more. And like Anti, iany day outside climbing is a good day, no matter the level.
But I'm still pushing hard also. Not afraid to fall or fail. Climbing outside exclusively has changed my mental outlook and training style. The goal now is to climb hard 10/easy 11 trad by the time I hit 50 (I'll be 47 this week). I think it's doable.
But back to the question, when will age become a factor? If you're thinking about it, it already has. And I think the best thing you can do to keep climbing harder and progressing is to pay attention to it. If you adjust your training to compensate for the process of getting older, you will not go downhill. You may have to adjust your goals though. Instead of the 5.14 that you wanted to send because it had the most wicke-ass cool move in it, you may have to adjust to find the 5.14 that plays to your strengths in the moment. The game becomes more like chess than checkers as we get older.
Ahhh, nothing like Monday afternoon rambling before a long weekend....
As for climbing and age, I agree with Mr. Steak; age plays a role, period. If only because that is how we determine how much use/abuse our body has taken. But I think that genetics are even more important in determining how hard and for how long. History of arthritis, any degenerative bone diseases, failing cardio, eyesight, et al. Eventually we all peak, it's just a matter of how long we stay can up there in the thin air before permanant damage.
I started at 40, took me a little over 4 years to get outside enough to climb 5.12 (barely). All while balancing work and family. A year or so later and the injuries started - nothing major, just nagging. Until nagging became so bad I had to do some rehab. They’re still there, but now I don't climb on plastic and train for general fitness; and I have maintained my generic sport level (11ish). Now I'm transitioning to trad so I'll have skills to keep climbing well into my later life (if I don't get hit by some mall sniper, or run over by a bus). And like Weber, as I've gotten older I enjoy the moderates more. And like Anti, iany day outside climbing is a good day, no matter the level.
But I'm still pushing hard also. Not afraid to fall or fail. Climbing outside exclusively has changed my mental outlook and training style. The goal now is to climb hard 10/easy 11 trad by the time I hit 50 (I'll be 47 this week). I think it's doable.
But back to the question, when will age become a factor? If you're thinking about it, it already has. And I think the best thing you can do to keep climbing harder and progressing is to pay attention to it. If you adjust your training to compensate for the process of getting older, you will not go downhill. You may have to adjust your goals though. Instead of the 5.14 that you wanted to send because it had the most wicke-ass cool move in it, you may have to adjust to find the 5.14 that plays to your strengths in the moment. The game becomes more like chess than checkers as we get older.
Ahhh, nothing like Monday afternoon rambling before a long weekend....
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad
When I said I didn't think scin could get much better after 40, I was referring to mainly power moves. There is no reason why he couldn't improve his technique a bit, although I'm sure its already pretty darn good...
With regards to Wes's post about el cap speed records and stuff like that...I think that's where older people excel. Once you cap out on power, you work on more and more endurance, and more efficiency, and more technically difficult, mentally difficult (dangerous) stuff. I think old people excel at that kind of stuff.
With regards to Wes's post about el cap speed records and stuff like that...I think that's where older people excel. Once you cap out on power, you work on more and more endurance, and more efficiency, and more technically difficult, mentally difficult (dangerous) stuff. I think old people excel at that kind of stuff.
Shamis wrote:When I said I didn't think scin could get much better after 40, I was referring to mainly power moves. There is no reason why he couldn't improve his technique a bit, although I'm sure its already pretty darn good...
With regards to Wes's post about el cap speed records and stuff like that...I think that's where older people excel. Once you cap out on power, you work on more and more endurance, and more efficiency, and more technically difficult, mentally difficult (dangerous) stuff. I think old people excel at that kind of stuff.
There are lots of 5.14's that don't have a single move harder than V5, so why the concern about power?
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
