I started climbing in a gym, then after a couple of years I started getting outside and learning sport. After several years of sport (exclusively in the gorge) and a few injuries, I've started learning trad. I always knew that there was a pretty big disparity between sport grades and trad grades, but never realized how huge it really it was until recently.
Seems like 5.5 - 5.8 trad lines feel more like 5.8 - 5.11 sport. I know some of thie difference is probably due to my technique and the headier nature of trad, and the relative newness of sport versus trad (old school grades with old school technology). Even so, the point system here is rather new.
Am I way off base (probably), or is the point system skewed towards sport sends. You get no points for any trad under 5.8 and only two bonus points per grade for leading trad? I think sending one of the Calypso's has to be at least as hard as sending many of the sport 10a's in the gorge.
I know this was discussed in the original points thread, but should/could it be readdressed since some time has passed. Anyone else agree, or at least agree to disagree?
Of sport, trad and the point system...
Of sport, trad and the point system...
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad
I'm learning from a solid 5.9 trad climber. Jammin, scummin, layin back and usiing all the tricks and techniques. The climbers I know that send 5.9-5.11 trad regularly send 5.12 and 5.13 sport. I climb with these people so I can learn and improve, and it works. But it does not explain the disparity in points and feel (to me)...Saxman wrote:You need to climb with people who are better at trad than you and/or hire a guide.
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad
