Rhapsody is an eliminate route????? WTF???

[512OW]

What the hell???

I'm confused. An eliminate route?

http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php? ... onlinenews


According to Sonnie Trotter, Dave McLeod's route, Rhapsody, is an eliminate. Was this ever mentioned in all the press that the route got? Did I just miss it?

Regardless, its ridiculous.

[pigsteak]

sort of like bolting a direct start to skip the good stuff.

[pigsteak]

btw..that is super ghey....don't use the arete...hey scin, .looks like your send at purgatory using that gumby ledge has been negated by trotter. please remove it from your tick list.

[anticlmber]

when the hell will someone take up a donation for me so i can keep climbing?? cheap friends, i tell you what.


eliminates are like marrying a scot. it's all an attempt to hide your blatent homosexuality. marrying into a skirt culture and start bolting routes; COU(gay)GH!!

[rhunt]

climbing is totally contrived so don't sweat the details.

[Myke Dronez]

I guess you gotta make do with the rock you have handy, although it does tarnish the feat somewhat. I always thought a line should be the path of least resistance, especially on some scary ass death route testpiece. Funny that it only comes out now that Trotter sends, never heard it before.

[chriss]

Funny that it only comes out now that Trotter sends, never heard it before.

Its easy to criticize things which are thousands of miles away that you have never seen.

From Sonnie Trotters webpage:
"You see, Rhapsody may be an eliminate, but it is still Rhapsody. There is a tremendous amount of logic behind what Dave did and that deserves a pile of respect I think. He saw the line, and climbed it to the top. The only rule is don't bail left to the arete, (a cop out) stay on the face and the line is very much obvious. And yes, very hard. Dave presented us all with a challenge. A challenge to climb this sequence of holds and until someone does, that challenge will always remain. I could do the 'direct version' and the 'cop out' version, but I still didn't climb Rhapsody, and I would not be truly satisfied. I came here to challenge myself and that I did. Rhapsdoy is a good route, actually no, it's a terrifc route, it climbs so fucking well, it's actually fun to fall off of."

[charlie]

So, now that it's been called an "eliminate" does that make this opportunity to be fanboi any less satisfying?

[Myke Dronez]

Fair enough, Dave is still a badass- I was picturing holds on the line that were 'off'. It seems many routes have bail-outs to softer climbing that are obviously off route- do these really constitute eliminates?

[512OW]

Look at the photo though... the arete is obviously within reach during the crux moves. Sonnie even states the same...

Odd, if you ask me. I'm gonna do Fuzzy without bailing to the jugs and call it 5.14.