Warming up

Post by JR » Tue May 06, 2008 10:19 am

I don't think there is a patent way for everyone to warm-up. There are tons of factors: temps, fitness levels, route lengths, route difficulty, approach length.

I personally have tried these with success.

do at least 3 routes before I get on anything hard. Preferably more. I'll climb the same 10 or 11 three or four times if need be.

warm up on my project, to relearn moves, just bolt to bolt.

warm up on routes of similar style as the project you are working on.

getting a slight pump and then I wait 30-40 minutes before getting on something hard.

I think you have to be flexible. Listen to your body. Get in tune with when you are ready to perform at your best.

If you get into a regimented warm up and you don't pay any attention to how you are feeling. You could cost yourself a send or worse you could get injured.

Post by **Maxwell** » Thu May 08, 2008 2:32 pm

thanks to everyone for all the input. i really appreciate you all taking time to drop some knowledge.
max

Post by **Atl** » Sun Jun 01, 2008 1:19 pm

Joint mobility exercises are a great warmup for any type of activity.

Post by **tutugirl** » Sun Jun 01, 2008 11:30 pm

I don't know the definition of project...but Andrew if you are sending second and third go you are right that is not a project and you are not trying hard enough...get on harder stuff my dear.

Post by **Shamis** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 3:31 pm

Its hard to find good warm-ups at the red because the area's with hard routes typically have lots of other hard routes.

My ideal warmup sequence for getting on some kind of steep overhanging project would be:

1 vertical/slabby route 2 grades under the project. This warms up the legs and arms a tiny bit, with little to no risk of getting flash pumped. It'll also help work out any tightness for those of us who tend to have hip/leg muscles tighten up quite a bit when not climbing. The hike in doesn't seem to be enough to get my high stepping in order.

1 slightly overhanging route 1-2 grades under project. This gets the blood flowing in the arms, will not get you anywhere near your limit though.

1 more overhanging route 1 full grade under the project. For me this is usually an easy 11. Don't worry about sending it clean, if you get pumped, hang/fall.

Then work the project bolt to bolt. After that you should be fully warmed up, stretched out, and you shouldn't have any kind of flash pump.

But at the red, there usually aren't a lot of options so I usually end up doing the easiest route at the crag 2 times and then hopping on the project, getting flash pumped and then sitting around belaying people who need to eat more.

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 3:34 pm

shamis...you should hang bolt to bolt on even the warm ups to prevent the flash pump...or get fatter friends.

Post by **Shamis** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 3:16 pm

pigsteak wrote:shamis...you should hang bolt to bolt on even the warm ups to prevent the flash pump...or get fatter friends.

going bolt to bolt on the warmups doesn't seem to properly warm me up. The best bet for me has always been to find a warmup that is more technical and less arms so I can get through it and loosen up without getting pumped at all.