Tissue Tiger Beta, please

Post by **whilojo** » Mon May 12, 2008 9:58 am

I've got the beta nailed for lower part of the crux section on Tissue Tiger, but I'm having trouble finding the proper feet for the right hand cross over to the India hold. Right now I have a high step with my right foot on the what used to be the first righthand crimp and I'm flagging my left foot. This beta works but only when I'm perfectly rested, (i.e. not on redpoint attempt).

All my climbing partners are taller so their foot beta doesn't work so well. I'm 5'5" and would love some foot beta from someone around the same height as me.

BTW, I've heard some people call the hold India, some call it Africa. Which is it?

Post by **krampus** » Mon May 12, 2008 10:06 am

india for sure, the flake is on the right

Post by **Wes** » Mon May 12, 2008 10:09 am

I am 5'7", and the key for me was to keep my feet really high right from the moves off the crimps at the start of the crux, and then everything just sorta worked out for the last moves. Otherwise, I would come up short.

I don't remember the exact feet though, and I think it changes each time I do the route. Tania is working it now and is around your hight, so maybe she can give you which feet she is using. Killer route for sure!

Post by JR » Mon May 12, 2008 10:19 am

It sounds like you have the beta right. You just have to get to the crux with more juice. Have you tinkered with the Terry Kindred knee bar?

Another question. Do you have trouble doing crosses? I know I do. There are slightly more natural moves straight up through that section albeit a little harder.

I think it is the India hold.

Good luck.

P.S. It really helped me to put a long draw in the crux section so I could clip from the giant right hand side pull jug hole. Saves a ton of energy.

Post by **der uber** » Mon May 12, 2008 10:46 am

there's holds on the right side of the plate. Instead of crossing into the idea hold, I went up right to a crimp on the opposite side of the plate, and then hit the jug that you grab after crossing to the india. I'm 5 7, and found it a little easier to not reach high into that undercling.

Post by **Wes** » Mon May 12, 2008 11:09 am

I tried the TK kneebars, and couldn't get them to work. Same with the right beta. Tissue took me way more tries then the others on the wall, and I even started working on it last. I could do it one hang, no problem and probably fell at least six or seven times at the crux. But, one day I went there with Michelle and Moya, and got the "chick beta" for the feet starting the crux (was using the pocket for the right foot, rather then the big ledge thing), and sent next go. Even if you feel fine on the lower part, the more wired and effortless you can get it, then better for the harder moves up high.

There should be a double draw on that bolt now as well, unless someone has taken them.

Post by **whilojo** » Mon May 12, 2008 11:19 am

JR, If you're refering to the kneebar at the big rest, then yes, I've tried it but found other resting positions more comfortable. . .I think my knees are too fat for that knee bar.. .

Wes, I was on it yesterday, and there is a double draw before the crux still. If these are yours or Tania's, THANK YOU THANK YOU. Very helpful. BTW, congratulations to the two of you.

Also Wes, I couldn't tell from your last post--was it the pocket or ledge that was the better "chick" beta for the beginning of the crux? I'm using the pocket, but it really works for me. Maybe I'm not a "chick" after all?

Post by **Wes** » Mon May 12, 2008 11:24 am

Thanks much! Yep, they are her draws - she was on it the morning before we got married!

The pocket was the dude beta, and as soon as I moved my foot up to the ledge, I sent. I was just getting so stretched out in the early part of the crux, that I was using to much juice to get to the cross. Once I saw Michelle and Moya do it with the higher foot, I was golden.

Post by **TankAzz** » Mon May 12, 2008 11:49 am

yeah, i skipped the cross and went right to a crimp with a thumb catch(?) i believe. the cross was too barndoor-ish for me...

Post by **RTimm** » Mon May 12, 2008 1:43 pm

I am 5'10" so I will not be any help with the crux (let alone remembering the sequence on a route that I have not done in years), but I can help with possibly getting you some added energy going into the crux. I climbed the route a couple times, making more, smaller moves through the beginning and middle, thus tiring myself prior to the crux. I watched a better climber do it and he made slightly longer, fewer moves which I tried and made all the difference.