I think its LOADS safer to lower - especially when cleaning a route - its safer and easier....
- and rings are cheap someone will just replace them.
Rapelling, you have to pull up rope - it takes longer - you have to bring a rappell device....
what do you all think?
What is better - Rapelling or Lowering?
Please, dear God...Rap if you can. The only time you should have to be lowered is if you are cleaning a severe overhung route after leading and you need to get your draws/gear back. Rapelling is just as safe as lowering, assuming you back-up your rapel. Face it, the most dangerous part of being the last person up the route is cleaning your anchors and untying your knot; getting your knot re-tied or feeding your ATC properly. The action of rapelling is not more dangerous.
Can you give me one good reason to NOT lower?RTimm wrote:Please, dear God...Rap if you can. The only time you should have to be lowered is if you are cleaning a severe overhung route after leading and you need to get your draws/gear back. Rapelling is just as safe as lowering, assuming you back-up your rapel. Face it, the most dangerous part of being the last person up the route is cleaning your anchors and untying your knot; getting your knot re-tied or feeding your ATC properly. The action of rapelling is not more dangerous.
I've read many injury reports because of things that ANYONE can do by accident - like only clipping one rappel rope....
I don't want to hear - wear on the anchor, because its minimal and rings are easily replaced.
Last edited by dbrayack on Mon Apr 21, 2008 2:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Cool. Thankfully "Someone" is around performing a public service.dbrayack wrote:....... someone will just replace them....
*I rap. I prefer to rap. I prefer to not shave my rope or the anchors any more than necessary. I prefer to control my rate of descent. I prefer to not have to wonder about communicating with the belayer. "I'm in direct, I will rap, take me off," is so much more confidence inspiring than trying to communicate about a lower, especially with someone you don't climb with often.
*exceptions being steep ass routes that are obviously easier on a lower.
Re: What is better - Rapelling or Lowering?
who is Someone?dbrayack wrote: - and rings are cheap someone will just replace them.
if it's the person making the comments on the online guide, i really doubt he'll replace them. he'll just let them wear almost clean through and then post a comment about how the FA bolted a choss pile with a crappy anchors. Someone sucks. i don't think you should count on him at all for replacing anchors.
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun
Re: What is better - Rapelling or Lowering?
I live and climb at the New River Gorge and we keep our well traveled routes in working order - and the folks at the Red do the same...can you please find another good reason to Rapell instead of lower besides "anchor wear"Josephine wrote:who is Someone?dbrayack wrote: - and rings are cheap someone will just replace them.
if it's the person making the comments on the online guide, i really doubt he'll replace them. he'll just let them wear almost clean through and then post a comment about how the FA bolted a choss pile with a crappy anchors. Someone sucks. i don't think you should count on him at all for replacing anchors.
and I know that I'm probably spelling Rapell wrong...
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