The Trad Climbers Inequality

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
512OW
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

Actually, I just did a search for "oldschool" 5.8's.

Some of the grades are definitely wrong.

Good Times 5.8+.... more like 8-, and thats pushin it.
Muscle Shoals 5.8+..... no harder than 5.7 on a humid day in tennis shoes
Snake 5.8???.... are you kidding?
Frenchburg Overhangs 5.8.... uh, what? 5.7 maybe. If you carry a rack meant for El Cap, wear Chuck Taylors, and do it blindfolded.


And thats just the beginning...
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
RRO
Posts: 1949
Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 4:18 am

Post by RRO »

you have just plain out and out lost your mind mr 52TR. you cannot in anyway possible compare the above routes and their difficulty to say , please dont feed the triceritops, audie, face up to the crack, or the slabs at roadside and they are the same grades. i aint getting into the whole sport and trad debate that has played out year after year, gigabyte after byte. but sir, you cannot with a straight face compare those routes to sport routes of the same grade in this area. as far as harder routes. different trades, different skills, nothing better, nothing worse... but they are different. kinda like blue and whire collar work.
http://www.redriveroutdoors.com

If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress
512OW
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

I can and will. They all feel the same to me.

Sorry.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
RRO
Posts: 1949
Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 4:18 am

Post by RRO »

must be the new ropes.........
http://www.redriveroutdoors.com

If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress
Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

Hahahahahaha new ropes. I get it. Zing.
Living the dream
512OW
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

Hell no. I'm not climbin any of that choss on my new ropes.

Its because I'm short, and climbing is easier for short people.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

^truth again.
Living the dream
Horatio Felacio
Posts: 3338
Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm

Post by Horatio Felacio »

512OW wrote:Actually, I just did a search for "oldschool" 5.8's.

Some of the grades are definitely wrong.

Good Times 5.8+.... more like 8-, and thats pushin it.
Muscle Shoals 5.8+..... no harder than 5.7 on a humid day in tennis shoes
Snake 5.8???.... are you kidding?
Frenchburg Overhangs 5.8.... uh, what? 5.7 maybe. If you carry a rack meant for El Cap, wear Chuck Taylors, and do it blindfolded.


And thats just the beginning...
can you actually distinguish 5.8+ from 5.8- or 5.7+? impressive. i have hard enough time distinguishing between whole number grades sometimes...even between 5.10's and 5.11's and even some 5.11's and 5.12's and even some 5.12's and 5.13's.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
Horatio Felacio
Posts: 3338
Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm

Post by Horatio Felacio »

i'd also like to weigh in on the point of this thread. the jerries are right. they deserve credit for the all the routes 5.0 and up. they also need extra points for trad routes. it is a definite fact that trad climbing is WAY harder than sport climbing...placing gear, mental focus, reading the routes correctly to make them safe, etc. let's take any trad climb...for example snotrocket...i'd bet money that any 5.12+ climber gets their head kicked in by that route. it takes an extreme amount of focus, technique, and dedication to send that thing...even on toprope. by no means is any ordinary person going to send that route (by ordinary, i mean an average human being, of which all should be able to climb most 5.12+ routes)...only highly skilled professionals...maybe even demi-gods by mere mortal standards. the pure strength alone required for sending that route is above and beyond the requisite skills of almost anyone in the universe. just think, a person that can send that route must be a model for any human being wanting to achieve perfection. they must not only be in extreme physical shape, but also be able to endure any physical condition, make the ladies swoon with adoration and lust, and must also sustain a superior intellect compared to his common man. back to the point, ray, all climbs deserve points (based on an exponential scale, not linear as is now the case). trad climbs in particular deserve, at the very least, 1/3 more of the total points...also increasing exponentially. that is all.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
the lurkist
Posts: 2240
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm

Post by the lurkist »

I heard a prerequisite for even tying in for Snotrocket is being able to make chicks org by voice command.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Post Reply