An unknown classic adventure climb.

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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krampus
Posts: 3933
Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:31 am

Post by krampus »

count me out....at least till I can climb offwidth
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
TradMike
Posts: 1173
Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am

Post by TradMike »

Does it warrant 2 stars? Is it a grunge climb? (North Facing, Run Off silt, etc.)
Crankmas
Posts: 3961
Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 5:24 pm

Post by Crankmas »

How's Ed? what a great dude,still use my old Vasque hiking boots he gave me a deal on at Gall Stones eons ago - did read he was putting up plenty of new trad lines well into 5.12 a few years back down around South Platte
ditzywonder
Posts: 244
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:31 pm

Post by ditzywonder »

ooohhhhhh....a nasty OW? count me in! i just gotta find someone crazy enough to do it with me now ;)
black diamonds are a girls best friend
L Day
Posts: 411
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 11:34 am

Post by L Day »

It wasn't really what I'd call grungey when Ed and I did it. So that probably hasn't changed. The wide crack was absolutely clean. What's unique about it is that it's kind of a dihedral that faces left, I think, then it switches to right facing at the crux. Weird, huh? Then there's a short section of vertical face with perfect horizontal holds formed by the familiar iron concretions. No runners on this section that I can recall, but it's easy. Pulling onto the bushy ledge might involve some vegetable holds, but those are certainly fair game. Belay from the big tree, if it's still there after all these years, then follow the crack diagaonally up left, then back right. Finish by going straight up at a tree. It's kind of a big route and gives the impression that you're up real high in the final sections.
L Day
Posts: 411
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 11:34 am

Post by L Day »

Last time I saw Ed was at a trade show about ten years ago. He was still living in Colorado Springs at the time, and still climbing hard, but he was having some problems with arthritis, something that had bothered him for a long time, and said cranking the 12s was really starting to hurt his fingers. And yes, he's a great guy.
512OW
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

ditzywonder wrote:ooohhhhhh....a nasty OW? count me in! i just gotta find someone crazy enough to do it with me now ;)
Ditzy, you have parts that would make OW climbing less than fun. Lets discuss it further, though...
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
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