An unknown classic adventure climb.

Post by **L Day** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 7:56 pm

Last Day 5.10c R - Yeah, I know, Larry's always trying to talk people into doing the old adventure routes. This climb isn't so hard, but it's real steep. Doesn't seem to be on anybody's spray list. What gives? I wouldn't be surprised if it's way easier than 10c. After all, I basically knew nothing about off width. I just thrashed my way up 'em. The R section is only 5.8. Maybe it's not even an R with modern gear, shouldn't be a problem for any sportie. I thought the offwidth crux was really cool. In fact, I think it's even in a nice shady spot. Who's done this route, anybody?

Post by **512OW** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 8:11 pm

I went out to do it AGES ago but it was wet. Looked cool though.

Post by **L K Day** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 9:07 pm

It beckons. Pick a dry spell and do it. The crux is unique, really. I can't remember having had to switch sides in the middle of an off width pitch anywhere but on this route. Pearsall and I did it in June of 1980, I think, and it was actually kind of chilly. I'm belaying Ed on the cover of his old guide book.

Post by **Andrew** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 9:15 pm

I will go out and do it with you Kris.

Post by **young'n climber** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:20 pm

But andrew, theres barely any points involved!!!

Post by **ynot** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:26 pm

the OW looked cool. It was wet when I was up there and I didn't have the big cams with me. It poured while we were there. Is it face climbing above that?
It's a long hike with all that gear. The locals don't want anyone on the gravel road.

Post by **L K Day** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:18 pm

I didn't have the big cams with me either

. The approach is actually really short. Just start walking the tourist trail that leads out to Chimney Top, leave the trail kind of early, and scramble down on the North side of the ridge before it becomes a big cliff. And yes, it's face climbing above the wide crack. Vertical face up to the bushy ledge that the belay tree is on, then follow the diagonal crack that runs left, then back right. See the guide book cover in the climbing museum.

Post by **L K Day** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:36 pm

Correction, we thought the R section was only 5.7. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/museum/ ... age18.html
Here's the photo of the beginning of this pitch. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/museum/ ... mage0.html

Post by **tomdarch** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 12:23 am

Larry - I just wanted to say that while we obviously disagree about politics, my hat's off to you for all the bushwhacking and launching up unknown, multipitch, offwidth, snake-habitat routes!

Post by **L K Day** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 6:38 am

Thanks. Snakes taste like chicken.