The Trad Climbers Inequality

Post by JR » Tue Apr 15, 2008 5:52 pm

Pigsteak...Pigsteak... Tsk..Tsk...I just looked at your ticklist.. You haven't done shit it the Trad realm. No wonder all the contemptuous remarks. You never even bothered. You should check it out if you ever put down the drill. It is super fun. Tape up and go Trad'in.

Post by JR » Tue Apr 15, 2008 6:01 pm

512OW wrote:Have you not seen what happens when strong sport climbers decide to try trad??? They crush.

You mean like Ho throwing down SnotRocket or Welcome to old Kentuck?

Post by **512OW** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 6:21 pm

Or like Mike Patz and Adam Stacks work on "China Doll".
Or Sharma onsighting The Excellent Adventure in Yosemite.
Or Katie Brown...
Or Sonnie Trotter...
Or Brian Kimball sending "Epitaph" in a few goes.

I recently read an interview with Dave Graham where he claims that what he's doing now is "practice" for trad climbing on big walls. Holy Shit when that happens....

Post by **flip** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:09 pm

All of this Inhibitor talks got me excited.

Kris, let me use some of your gear and I will test this crack out. All I need are the big pieces. I have very minimal ow skills and haven't tried to climb any gear route harder than 10a but I am proficient at 11 sport routes. After I send I'll give you an update.

Post by **512OW** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:50 pm

I'll bring it to the gym. The whole rack. In order.

Post by **flip** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:58 pm

Sweet!

Will you give me the bata too?

Post by **512OW** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:53 am

Every piece of it. I think theres a video of me doin it out there.... was that on Jeffs video?

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:33 am

JR wrote:Pigsteak...Pigsteak... Tsk..Tsk...I just looked at your ticklist.. You haven't done shit it the Trad realm. No wonder all the contemptuous remarks. You never even bothered. You should check it out if you ever put down the drill. It is super fun. Tape up and go Trad'in.

man, after killing everything in the valley, climbing choss trad at the red is less than satisfactory.

truth be told, we moved to KY three years ago to climb sport. period. I like the athletic challenges and number of ppitches you can do with sport. I climb for the athletic outlet of sport climbing, NOT for the asthetics. Humping gear to a climb, racking up, taping up, getting a noon start, climbing 3 pitches and rapping, etc..these are NOT what attract me to the rock. I like climbing for the pure athletic difficulty. I enjoy bouldering on my small garage wall, to get in shape for sport climbs.

I realize others have other demands/goals for their climbing, and that is for sure cool. But to somehow glamorize trad climbing (or sport climbing)as the holy grail, and to pretend that 5.8 crack is equivalent of 5.10 sport....naw, doesn't fly.

Post by **Bruisebrother** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:43 pm

Piggie, you need to do a bunch of the old-school 5.8's in the Gorge. You'll come away with a whole new attitude about compareing sport to Trad. JR will show you a few!

Post by **512OW** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:54 pm

Old school 5.8 feels exactly like new school 5.8 feels exactly like 5.8.

Its 5.8.

Period.