The Trad Climbers Inequality

Post by **Andrew** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:50 pm

^Truth x 100000000000

Post by **RRO** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:56 pm

SCIN wrote:I kind of modeled my point system in ways that i could be ahead and show my dominance on all. It seemed to make sense at the time. Sorry y'all, you're stuck with it, I am RAY ELLINGTON the dreamy guidebook author. No way in hell am I going to go back, recode, and recalculate all of the scores. Plus what I say is the law of the land.

I don't think most people are really upset that lines under 5.8 aren't counted, those people should not be climbing and should stay at Walmart. If they were counted it would just stroke their ego and bring them to crags me and my sponsored homies are chillin at. In my opinion the tougher trad lines at the Red don't count unless they were done by 52TR and myself. So everything other than that should actually deduct points.

I think trad lines just feel more difficult sometimes because you're relying on friction, opposition, and squeezing more than pulling, thats why I only climb SPORT now. Pulling is just instinctual and really shows of my lats and allows me to be back in time for American Idol and Survivor. Pushing and squeezing is more physical feeling and makes my old ass hemroids hurt. Plus, onsiting is tougher when the gear placements are tough and in the end Im skeered.

nice

Post by **anticlmber** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:58 pm

double nice

Post by **SCIN** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:02 pm

Triple nice.

Post by **anticlmber** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:13 pm

i agree with OW about lack of technique equals the difficulty felt on gear. roadside was 5.10 before i knew how to jam. i think that the bolt grades aren't consistent though. the 7s, 8,s 9, all have tougher moves, (with proper technique) then a bolted route of the same grade.

also, the extra weight of the gear adds a little more to the experience. draws are all light and shit and that helps.

Post by **512OW** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:48 pm

anticlmber wrote:the 7s, 8,s 9, all have tougher moves, (with proper technique) then a bolted route of the same grade.

Maybe (though I still disagree), but the 7, 8, and 9 trad routes all have about twice as many no hands rests.

Lets take a popular call for "biggest sandbag" in the Red.... The Beeneling.

5.9+, yet all the whiners call it at least 10b.

I got a no hands stance nearly EVERY move.

Let me see anybody get a no hands stance nearly every move of Sunshine or Moonbeam....

Not to mention, even an "ok" handjam or fingerlock, at anything less than perfectly vertical, is like having an incut jug. Every 9 and under trad route in the Red is a jug haul.

Post by **charlie** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 11:43 pm

Took me 3 times to do Return of Geoff Beene. I've warmed up on Jack In the Pulpit for years.

Maybe my trad skills are just so much more deficient than my sport skills, but I like to think I suck sufficiently in both areas (and clearly w/ the bolders). The grades are different, the technique is different, the climbing is different, and life is tough all over.

Pretending they are the same is ridiculous, almost as absurd as discussing the "inequality" of the point system around here.

Judges rule.......

.....5 pages on this conversation is pretty damn lame and I am so bummed I'm not waking up in the desert tomorrow.

Post by **Wes** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 11:52 pm

And yet you spent the time you could be posting photo of IC to respond. Disturbing, really...

charlie wrote:Took me 3 times to do Return of Geoff Beene. I've warmed up on Jack In the Pulpit for years.

Maybe my trad skills are just so much more deficient than my sport skills, but I like to think I suck sufficiently in both areas (and clearly w/ the bolders). The grades are different, the technique is different, the climbing is different, and life is tough all over.

Pretending they are the same is ridiculous, almost as absurd as discussing the "inequality" of the point system around here.

Judges rule.......

.....5 pages on this conversation is pretty damn lame and I am so bummed I'm not waking up in the desert tomorrow.

Post by **512OW** » Mon Apr 14, 2008 12:22 am

charlie wrote:Took me 3 times to do Return of Geoff Beene. I've warmed up on Jack In the Pulpit for years.

Well duh... you don't "train" on cracks.

I can warm up on Geoff just as easy as I can on Jack. In fact, Geoff has 2 no hands rests... making it essentially three 20 foot 10b routes. And theres only really one move....

Post by **anticlmber** » Mon Apr 14, 2008 12:38 am

512OW wrote:

Well duh... you don't "train" on cracks.

I can warm up on Geoff just as easy as I can on Jack. ..[/quote]

there's no cracks you do for "fitness"??

nice subtle spray.
i can warm up on mercy better than aquaduct. doesn't make one easier or mean i have technique. i have found that there are some fluffy climbs of all types(and the bags as well) but some stuff suites us better than others. styles, holds, difficulty is all subjective to each person. but OW i think you are just trying to be nice and not call most of us pus(*&s. thanks.

and really, CHUCK, pics.