What type of belay device do you use?

Post by **danielgfolk** » Mon Apr 07, 2008 12:11 am

you can do whatever you want while belaying as long as you are belaying at the same time. It is called multi-tasking. And I cannot figure why people would not want to use a grigri, it is easier and less effort (mentally and physically) and more reliable. That is why we use cams and not old machine nuts tied with hemp rope or hexes. There is a reason that some things are called old school.

Post by **Saxman** » Mon Apr 07, 2008 12:20 am

Saying you can't take your hand off the rope using a grigri while someone is hanging is like saying you can't fall because the quickdraw/bolt/hanger/harness/rope might fail.

Post by **Lander** » Mon Apr 07, 2008 12:47 pm

This discussion about grigris reminds me of one time when I took an old traddie friend sport climbing for the first time. This was years ago. He marvelled that we implicitely trusted the bolts and didn't mind falling on them. After all, it's just a single piece and if it blows and you're close to the ground, you'll deck.

My response to him was that if we couldn't rely on the bolts to catch a fall, then it wouldn't be sport climbing. The whole sub-category of climbing would't exist. It's based on the gear being bombproof.

It's the same way with the grigri. To say you can't take your brake hand off when using the grigri is to negate the purpose of the device. You might as well use an ATC.

Post by **maine** » Mon Apr 07, 2008 4:11 pm

danielgfolk wrote:you can do whatever you want while belaying as long as you are belaying at the same time. It is called multi-tasking.

Thanks for being so honest.

I can honestly say, you will never belay me.

Post by **caribe** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 12:14 am

As ropes get thinner, 9.4 mm is getting more popular, the grigri might get more sketchy; i don't know. My 9.8 is working very well in the grigri. has anyone seen bonafide variable response as a function of rope diameter?

Post by **JRTrash** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:52 am

Saxman wrote:Saying you can't take your hand off the rope using a grigri while someone is hanging is like saying you can't fall because the quickdraw/bolt/hanger/harness/rope might fail.

I see your point, however I also see nothing wrong with a backup in climbing. My brake hand almost never leaves the belay when using a grigri and if it must leave for some reason, I tie a knot in the rope. I mean, how long does it take to tie an overhand knot? I see no reason why it shouldn't be done. Some things in climbing can't be backed up, but in this case it can.