The Red Grades Vs The Rest?

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?

Do the grades in the Red compare to those out west?

Yes
8
29%
No
4
14%
Depends on the Climb
16
57%
 
Total votes: 28

L Day
Posts: 411
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 11:34 am

Post by L Day »

I don't know. I thought the grades on classic trad routes were pretty consistent with the valley, lovers leap, and other western areas. Watch out for extreme run-outs on some otherwise moderate routes.
Last edited by L Day on Tue Mar 25, 2008 1:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
JR
Posts: 1128
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:18 pm

Post by JR »

Class 5 was subdivided in the 1950s. Initially it was based on ten climbs of Tahquitz Rock in Idyllwild, California, and ranged from "the Trough" at 5.0, a relatively modest technical climb, to "the Open Book" at 5.9, considered at the time the most difficult unaided climb humanly possible. This system was developed by members of the Rock Climbing Section of the Angeles Chapter of the Sierra Club.[1]
If the system was based in southern California. How could we claim that J-Tree, Yosemite, Lovers Leap are hard for the grade??? They are the grades. They are the grades that the rest of the country have been trying to emulate.
L Day
Posts: 411
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 11:34 am

Post by L Day »

Exactly.
512OW
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

Just got back from JTree.... I didn't see the slightest difference in grading between the two areas.

In fact, I've never noticed a difference at any area.

Its lack of technique that makes an area seem overgraded.
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Shamis
Posts: 1343
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:11 pm

Post by Shamis »

JR wrote:
Class 5 was subdivided in the 1950s. Initially it was based on ten climbs of Tahquitz Rock in Idyllwild, California, and ranged from "the Trough" at 5.0, a relatively modest technical climb, to "the Open Book" at 5.9, considered at the time the most difficult unaided climb humanly possible. This system was developed by members of the Rock Climbing Section of the Angeles Chapter of the Sierra Club.[1]
If the system was based in southern California. How could we claim that J-Tree, Yosemite, Lovers Leap are hard for the grade??? They are the grades. They are the grades that the rest of the country have been trying to emulate.
I was saying that places like J-tree, are pretty consistent with places like seneca and the gunks. However, all of these places would be much harder than a lot of the random crags you find scattered around out west, particularly red rocks.
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