When Have You Oficcially Redpointed a Route

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When Have You Successfully Redpointed a Route?

When you clip into both set of anchors.
11
18%
When you clip into one anchor.
44
71%
When you tap the chains and take a victory whip.
7
11%
 
Total votes: 62

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SCIN
Posts: 4932
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Post by SCIN »

A redpoint is the conglomeration of an entire rule set.

Do you really think that to redpoint a route you must clip all biners attached to the anchor point? I'm saying no, you shouldn't need to. You should only need to clip a point on the chains. Lots of lines have multiple draws and biners attached to the chains. It's kind of silly to think you need to clip them all to redpoint a line.
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pigsteak
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

"both sets of anchors" implies at least four anchor points, since a set has to be at least two.

so, SCIN, your question of three points is irrelevant.

if a climber is pumped out of their mind and barely sticks (or let's say slaps) the final hold, but clips no anchors, would this also be a redpoint?

I am thinking of heart shaped box, where there is a redpoint crux going to the chains. if one were to just merely jump from the last crimpers out left and tag the chains, that would seem pretty lame to me. but maybe I need to change my ideal, and start jumping.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

No way man, you have to clip at least one biner attached to the anchors. I can think of quite a few lines where clipping the chains in is the crux. Harvest comes to mind. Heart Shaped like you said. You have to show control. Just like a bouldering comp. You have to show control to prove that you've tamed the beast.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
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der uber
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2006 2:42 am

Post by der uber »

Both Ale8 and Chainsaw have relatively difficult clips at the anchors, too. I agree that it's part of the climb.
schwagpad
Posts: 286
Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 4:04 am

Post by schwagpad »

Everyone has there own rules. Here's mine. We're climbers not clippers. I'd count the redpoint if you bailed after slapping the chains, hell I'd give it to you if you toproped it. But I reserve the right to talk shit about it. That way I get to look generous while still implying you cheated. Maybe there should be a special term for slapping the chains and bailing....Asspoint?
anticlmber
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Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 12:34 am

Post by anticlmber »

if you core shot your rope THAT counts.

i'm fine with one but when i get to the anchors i'm jazzed enough to clip both. falling is kinda lame at that point.
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ynot
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Post by ynot »

It's redpointed when I add it to my spray list
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
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pigsteak
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

ynot, it ain't redpointed til the pigsteak rule book says it is.

all this "clip one, slap, jump" BS is just the weak sauce rising to the top. there's two....clip em both.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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ynot
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Post by ynot »

I bet I place more than two and clip all 4 or 5
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
Andrew
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

Next route I bolt I am putting 12 bolts for the anchors and have a crappy crimp to clip off of. That way you have to clip all twelve to send.
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