best crack routes

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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krampus
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Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:31 am

Post by krampus »

Crankmas wrote:sandy's ass cherry- the moves are redundant though the access is easy,try the hand crack next door as well
from what I remember that hand crack was more of an off-width
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
Evan
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Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2007 2:18 pm

Post by Evan »

I wouldn't call face up to that crack a 'crack route' but it is fun. Kind of reminiscent of sundial crack at looking glass, just a few moves in the crack. Otherwise the routes are totally different.

No one likes the routes up at Muscle Beach? I guess that stuff is too wide for what the poster was looking for. I went up there last year and plan on going back soon as it warms a bit. I thought there were some routes that were wide hands without too much ow. Maybe I'm wrong. I do know there are quite a few short cracks that you could scramble.
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ynot
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Post by ynot »

The cracks at Muscle beach look casual enough until you tear into one and get spit off. The 7 to the right is probably the easiest one up there. It's a bit sandy and stemmy.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
jrvela
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2002 11:24 pm

Post by jrvela »

It's been a long time since I've climbed (it seems that way). It's even been a longer time since I postef to the board. I been freezing my ass up here in Michigan waiting for this mini-ice-age to end.

It seems like every year there is a request for recommended easy trad. I am glad, this gives me a ticklist for the season :D .

The ruotes mentioned so far include some of my favorite ones. But it missed others. Here are some routes to add to the already mentioned ones. I've included some routes easier than what the original post requested, because I think they are worth doing.

Lady Slipper - Emeral City/Global Village:

The Shining ( 5.8 )
Father & Son ( 5.6 )
Vision ( 5.7 )
Jake's Flake ( 5.8 )

Pebble Beach:

Environmental Impact ( 5.7 )

Dip Wall:

Green Eggs ( 5.7 )
Ham (5.7)
Star-Bellied Sneeches ( 5.8 )

Fortress Wall:

Bombs Bursting ( 5.8 )
Snake ( 5.8 )
American Crack ( 5.4 )
Route 48 ( 5.5 )
Bed Time for Bonzo ( 5.6 )
Calypso I ( 5.7 )
Calypso II ( 5.6 )
Calypso III ( 5.2 )
Blue Runner ( 5.9- )

Jewel Pinnacle:

Diamond in The Crack ( 5.6 )

Most of the routes mentioned are in the old crags. I would be interested to hear more about high quality trad ruotes (easy to moderate) in the newer crags (Southern, Muier, etc). It would be cool to have a summary of all the recommended ruotes once the post thread settles.

I can't wait go down there soon and plug some gear or even clip bolts.
In most other sports you need one ball.
rjtrials
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Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2007 1:49 pm

Post by rjtrials »

Keep driving South until you hit T-Wall...

RJ
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The black sheep, the blemish, the one who went wrong...
jrvela
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Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2002 11:24 pm

Post by jrvela »

Yeah, T-Wall cracks rock. But, that is a 10 hour drive for me, so a two day trip involves more driving than climbing.
In most other sports you need one ball.
sketchypro
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Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 1:16 pm

Post by sketchypro »

nuther vote for Rock Wars
and T-wall - u gotta go there just to do In Pursuit of Excellence
Now, if I was you all, I'd quit askin' questions and haul ass
Hefe
Posts: 77
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 7:29 pm

Post by Hefe »

I would add Casual Viewing and White Out to the Global Village list
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