Lion's Head

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 3:53 pm

Will be going up Aug 9-17. If anyone has been there or has beta on great routes (up to 5.12c), I'd appreciate feedback. Also, i have heard there are other crags fairly close to Lion's Head which are great for sport climbing...anyone know?

Also, any rest day suggestions in the area are much appreciated.

(I already know about the rapping in/hanging belay gig)

Post by **canadaclimbergirl** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 4:30 pm

Lion's Head...as in Canada...or some other place i'm not aware of>>>>>>>.cause I'd feel kinda silly giving you beta on the wrong crag.......

cara

Post by **hotkarl** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 4:37 pm

White's bluff is across the bay from Lionshead and has lots of stellar 11's and 12's, no hanging belays but some loose rock. The punisher is a great 11c there. I will check my guidebook for more routes. Great summer climbing for sure!

Go for a swim in the Georgian Bay for a rest day. Just remember it is not as warm as the Canadian kids will have you believe!

Post by **canadaclimbergirl** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 4:53 pm

it may not be as warm as kentucky....but you won't be needing your skis.

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 5:00 pm

yes..in canada...I have ordered the Bracken and Oates book from 1997, but haven't got it yet....are the national parks worth a visit? how about the bruce trail?
is white bluff in the book I ordered?

Post by **Power2U** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 5:00 pm

Lions Head and White's Kick Ass.

Whites,
Pocket Rocket (12b)
They Live (12b)
The Punicher (11c)
Evil Dead (11d)
Hitler's Brain (12b/c)
The Thing That Eats Hippies (12d)

Lions Head
Rum, Sodomy (12b) Awesome! classic porter line in the great white north
Trix are for Kids (11b/c) Awesome! killer pockets
Cumulous (11a) great fun
Busted at Berford (12a) Facy Slabby.
Doggy Dirt Pipe (12a) Bouldery...cool.

2 cool climbs 11b & 11d off this ledge and I can't remeber their names... the 11d was like manhunter or something like that, abd the 11b was to its left.

You'll have fun...enjoy

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 5:18 pm

thanks power! any ideas on under 11 for warmups and for familiarizing ourselves with the stone?

I have also been told to leave a line up in case we need to jug out. correct?

Post by **canadaclimbergirl** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 5:21 pm

don't know if you boulder, but Niagara Glen is about 1.5 hours south of Toronto. It is definately worth a visit. It is Stellar.

Post by **hotkarl** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 5:38 pm

Pocket Rocket is a great route!

Post by **Canuck** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 6:16 pm

Metcalfe Rock and Berlin Wall are both close to Collingwood and have some bolted routes. I've heard that "When I Put On My Helmet I Become Like Superman" 11c at Metcalfe is really fun. Berlin Wall has some bolted lines and has really easy TR setups for other mixed/trad lines. It's also got the best natural air-conditioning system - it can be 90 degrees outside and the whole canyon that Berlin Wall is in will be cooler than 70.

The Bruce Trail is worth checking out, particularly up around Bruce Peninsula National Park - there's some great places for snorkelling and cliff-diving. I did some bouldering there long before I started climbing and knew what bouldering was. Right over the water so there was a nice wet landing when I fell

I'm sure you could find some more difficult stuff than what I was on. The water's not that bad - we Canadian kids can stay in for hours on a hot day. If you want to swim, and don't like the "cold" water, go around the south end of Georgian Bay to Wasaga Beach - I've been there a few times when the water temperature was 75-80F. Or the water on the west side of the Peninsula (in Lake Huron) is always warmer than the east side of the Peninsuala (in Georgian Bay), but not as clear.