To Chalk or not To Chalk????!?!?

Post by **canadaclimbergirl** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 2:22 pm

okay, so I am surfing on that world wide web thing....and I am looking at climbing in Minnesota...as I may have to go there on business in the fall. 80% of the crags have a 'no chalk' policy.

Their slogan is that chalk is for school teachers and little girls. Uh....have none of these people tried to hang on to a sick crimp or sloper on a hot July afternoon??????

I understand the asthetics of it all, I'm not stupid, but what about 'color friendly' chalk?

I'm addicted to the white stuff......big time..... I wouldn't want to lead without it.....my palms are sweating before I leave the ground!! I practically have to chalk up to tie my shoes!

I don't think I would climb at a crag that didn't allow chalk.

Are there some other issues that I am not aware of? and...is this a common practice...or a growing one???

cara

Post by **Uncle Big Green** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 2:26 pm

you don't need any fairy dust, Tinkerbell. try it - and yes, I sweat big time.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 2:33 pm

Chalk rules. I hear ya on the addiction, Cara.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 2:34 pm

Screw that. I will stop and chalk up when I am one move away from the chains on a 5.7... maybe twice. No way I will climb at a crag that says NO to my bag of powdered courage!

Mj

Post by **lordjim_2001** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 3:14 pm

As much as I hate to say it you should respect the local policy. If they say 'no chalk' assume NO CHALK! Don't let that stop you from checking out the crags though. On a side note, there was a humerous story in an issure of Rock & Ice a few months or so ago about chalking policies. On a personal note more on topic, I love chalk and buy it by the freakin' pound!

Post by **rhunt** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 3:44 pm

Chalk Rules... but, I agree that you should respect local policy.

Post by **canadaclimbergirl** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 4:33 pm

Oh..I definately respect local policy. No question there...I just couldn't imagine!

I'm a chalk fiend. I'll sit in the gym on rainy days with my buddies...with my hands in the chalk pot...when they are on the wall climbing......

..."Yes, doctor, I think I have a problem....what can you do for me?"

my poor steering wheel in my car is a funny color from the chalk residue on my hands...............

Post by **t bone** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 4:54 pm

Chalk away! been using the stuff for 22 yrs.

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 7:52 pm

more than anything, most people will admit chalk is a psychological crutch. try this exercise..climb without your chalkbag on your warmups..you'll be suprised at how many times you still reach back to dip..and lo and behold, you may be amazed to find yourself sending these warmups without the pacifier...

and especially at a "connect the dots" hotspot like the Red....I can honestly say every standard route at the red has enough chalk for the next 2 years of climbers who tread....

blowing chalk off your hands like the euros does make for a sweet photo op though..

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 7:56 pm

and while I 'm here..I am not sure anyone has answered your questions yet.

I'll shoot for one. When I lived in Colorado Springs, Garden of the Gods has the "red" user friendly chalk policy...but the stuff they sold at the local shop was crap...felt like graphite on the hands...so my experience with color friendly chalked would lead me to say attach a towel to your harness, and dry on your way up....

maybe spray antiperspirant on your hands before your climb..(just kidding for the enviros)